萨尔茨堡第一天（Salzburg Day 1）

Well behaved marionettes performing English inline below …

7月26日 星期四

今天好累，只做短暂的记录吧。

早上PJG在网上买了72小时的萨尔茨堡卡， 跟其它城市一样，可以无限坐城市公共交通， 并且一些景点门票免费或是有折扣。 虽然在网上买了，但还是要去萨尔茨堡旅游咨询中心去取实物卡，似乎有些不合理，但没办法，还是要去。所以我俩先去取了两张卡，然后步行去了Hohenstauffen旅店。这个旅店是69年前PJG的父亲和朋友来这里住的旅店，不晓得他们为什么选择当年了这家旅店，PJG其实在去年已经和旅店的老板有邮件往来，今天的拜访竟然遇到了老板。这个旅店已经是家族生意的第三代传人了。老板和老板娘都很友好，给我俩看了一些老照片，包括1901年的旅店的照片。可惜他们没有保存69年前的入住记录，不然真的是很珍贵的留念。我俩临走时，意外的是老板还送了我俩两个他认识的画家的画的挂历！非常好看由 好大的挂历，真不知道我俩怎么拿呢！

Thursday, July 26

I’m so tired today, so I’ll just make a short record of today’s events.

In the morning, we bought a 72-hour Salzburg card online. Like other cities, it allows unlimited public transportation in the city, and some attractions are free or discounted. Although we bought it online, we still had to go to the Salzburg Tourist Information Center at the train station to get a physical card, which seemed silly. Anyway, since we were at the train station we took a short walk to the Hohenstauffen Hotel. This hotel is where PJG’s father stayed 69 years ago. We weren’t sure why he chose this hotel except that it was very close to the train station. PJG actually had an email conversation with the hotel owner last year and on today’s visit we met the owners. This hotel is already in the third generation of a family business. The owner and his wife were very friendly and showed us some old photos, including photos of the hotel from 1901 and in the 50’s. Unfortunately and unsurprisingly, they did not save the registration records from 69 years ago, which would have been a really a precious discovery. As we were leaving, the owner unexpectedly presented us with two large calendars with paintings from a local artists he knew. Very nice to recieve the big calendars, but we don’t really know how we will get them home!

不得不先回民宿把挂历放在再继续今天的游览，下一个目的地是坐落在山上的萨尔茨堡要塞。该城堡要塞是11世纪以来欧洲最大的，保存最完整的中世纪城堡。 欧洲的很多城市都是由宗教的发展而发展起来的，萨尔茨堡要塞据具体始建年份不详，但是是由历任总主教逐步扩建而形成今天的要塞。在1515年要塞就修建了铁索缆车用来运送货物。我俩今天也坐了缆车上山游览要塞。

We had to go back to the apartment to drop off the huge calendars before resuming our tour for today. The next destination is the Salzburg Fortress on the hill. The castle fortress is the largest and most preserved medieval castle in Europe since the 11th century. Many cities in Europe have developed around religion. It is not known when the Salzburg fortress was first built, but it evolved from a successive expansion of the various archbishops that ruled there. In 1515, the fortress was established as a place to store precious salt. Anyway, we took a short funicular ride up the mountain to visit the fortress today.

参观完了萨尔茨堡要塞，我俩去了莫扎特的出生地, 位于萨尔茨堡老城的一栋房子的三楼，莫扎特于1756年1月27日出生在这里，现在这里是莫扎特博物馆。莫扎特家在1773年离开了这个公寓，搬去了不远处的更大一些的公寓。

Mozart’s Birth Place

After visiting the Salzburg Fortress, we went to the birthplace of Mozart, located on the the third floor of a house in the Old Town. Mozart was born on January 27, 1756, and now his birthplace is the Mozart Museum. The Mozart family left the apartment in 1773 and moved to another larger apartment not far away.

博物馆内并不允许拍照片，所以没有照片可以分享。参观完了莫扎特出身地博物馆，我俩去一个民宿房主推荐的吃一个甜点的地方，吃了甜点后，就赶去萨尔茨堡木偶剧院看5点开始的牵线木偶剧 – 音乐之声。PJG的父亲当年也去过这个木偶剧院看了一出牵线木偶剧，不过就不知道是不是“音乐之声”了。萨尔茨堡木偶剧成立于1913年，是世界上最古老的一直在经营的牵线木偶剧的剧场之一。剧场不大，走廊里展示了很多以前演出过的原版的木偶。

Photographs are not allowed in the museum, so no photos can be shared here. After visiting the Mozart-born museum, we went to a place where the AirBnb owner had recommended a certain dessert. (You’ll have to wait for another blog about the dessert.) After eating the dessert, we went to the Salzburg Marionette Theatre to watch a performance of ,”The Sound of Music.” PJG’s father also went to the same puppet theater to watch a marionette show, but he was pretty sure it wasn’t of “The Sound of Music.” Founded in 1913, the Salzburg Marionette Theatre is one of the oldest theaters in the world with a marionette performances. The theater is not big, and in the lobby they show a lot of the original puppets that have performed there before.

演出过程中是不允许拍照的，所以下面这张照片是最后一张。我记得电影版的音乐之声还是小时候看的，记得是整个学校带我们去电影院看的。之后好像就没再看过了，所以对很多故事细节都忘记了。不过那些盛传的歌曲的旋律还是记忆犹新的，比如”哆来咪”。这个牵线木偶版的把故事缩短到1个多小时，整体故事情节也和电影相似，勾起了很多对电影的记忆。这个木偶版的里面还设计了两个用真人演的角色，演出时间很短，但是很贴切，一个是修道院的圣母的角色（高于常人之上的感觉），一个是纳粹士兵的角色（这个很有意思，他上台收走一条狗的尸体，挎着纳粹士兵的军步，头被遮住了，有些滑稽地从台的一侧走到另一侧）。

No photos are allowed during the performance, so the photo below is the last one. I remember seeing The Sound of Music at the movies as a child – our whole school went on a field trip to the cinema. But, it seems that I haven’t seen it since, and I forgot many of the details of the story. However, the melody of one of the songs is still fresh in my mind, such as Do Re Mi (哆来咪). The marionette version shortened the story to a little more than an hour, but the overall storyline was similar to the movie which evoked many memories of the film. The puppet version also features two characters played by real people – one is the role of the Mother of the convent and the other is the role of a Nazi soldier that walks across the stage. A huge character compared with the puppets, he strolls across the stage sweeping away the body of a dead dog, mimicking the march of a Nazi soldier, his head was out of view, and he marched comically from one side of the stage to the other side.

看剧的时候，并没有刻意地意识到这些都是被人控制的牵线木偶的表演，剧目演出结束后，这些木偶演员来到台前又表演了一首歌曲，在影音和它们的舞蹈声中，大黑幕开始慢慢地向上拉，慢慢的露出了那些控制它们的幕后表演者的头，真是不对比感觉不出来，那些木偶现在看起来好小，那些操控它们的演员的头排成了一排，身体在幕后（看不出来是站着，还是坐着，还是跪着），双手在上方灵活地扭动，控制木偶们的舞姿，有时他（她）们还要换手，把木偶线自如地换到旁边演员的手里。看到这种大小对比，人偶对比，和幕后演员敬业的表演，一种敬畏感油然而生。 PJG也说他当时看到演员们露头的时候，竟然有些热泪盈眶。

When watching the drama, it was easy to forget that there were people controlling the performances of the marionettes. At the finale, the puppet actors were revealed and we saw them performing the “Yodel Puppet show” from the movie. The big black curtain that covered the actors began to rise up slowly, gradually revealing the heads of the behind-the-scenes performers who were controlling them. It was really a stark reality. The puppets looked small now, and the heads of the actors who were controlling them were all in a row very close to each other. Their bodies were behind the curtains so we couldn’t tell if they were standing, sitting, or squatting. But we could see their hands flexibly twisting above, controlling the dance of the puppets, sometimes having to change hands with the actor next to them as the puppet roamed across the stage. Seeing this contrast in size with the comparison of the dolls, and the performance of the behind-the-scenes actors gave us a sense of awe. Both of us said that when we saw the actors revealed, there were a few tears in our eyes from amazement.