巴黎歌剧院，万神殿葬礼 (Opéra de Paris, Pantheon Burial)

7月1日，星期日 – Sunday, July 1

今天记录的顺序有些颠倒，其实是万神殿葬礼在上午发生，参观巴黎歌剧院在下午发生的。

Today the order of this post is reversed. Visiting Pantheon Burial took place in the morning and visiting the Opéra de Paris was in the afternoon.

巴黎歌剧院 – Opéra de Paris

我俩下午去了做地铁直达了巴黎歌剧院，剧院门票12欧元／张，我租了一个语音导游器，话费5欧元。

We took the subway to see the Opéra de Paris in the afternoon. The entrance ticket was 12 EUR each and I also rented an audio guide for 5 euros. Much of what I’m posting about the history of the opera I learned from the Chinese audio guide.

巴黎歌剧院， 又称加尼埃宫，是有着一个半世纪多历史的建筑，与巴黎圣母院、卢浮宫以及圣心教堂一样，彰显着巴黎的文艺和历史。 说到歌剧院的诞生，还是因为一个事件。其实在歌剧院诞生之前，巴黎在旧城区已经有了一个歌剧院，1858年，有人在那个旧城区的歌剧院暗杀当时在欣赏歌剧法国国王和王后，虽然国王和王后没有被炸弹波及，但是事件之后，国王意识到旧的城区很难保障安全，旧开始在新城区修建一个新的歌剧院，也就是今天的巴黎歌剧院。当时要找建筑师的时候，还举行了一个竞赛，谁也没有想到，当时名不见经传的35岁的查尔斯·加尼埃赢的了竞赛，所以剧院又被称作加尼埃宫。 歌剧院一共用了15年修建，于1875年揭幕开业。加尼埃的设计风格是一种综合的艺术风格，整体机构显示了古典主义， 大理石，玛瑙等绚丽的装饰和色彩显示了巴洛克风格。

Opéra de Paris, also known as Palais Garnier, has more than one and a half centuries of history;  Along with the Notre Dame, the Louvre and Sacré-Cœur,  it represents the art and history of Paris. An interesting story, the Opéra de Paris came about because of an incident. Apparently, before it was built, there was already an Opera house in the old town of Paris. In 1858, someone was trying to assassinate the French king while he and his wife were watching the opera. And although the King and his wife were not injured by the bomb, the King began to realize the safety issues in the old town. So he ordered that they begin to build a new opera house in the newer part of Paris – which is now the Opéra de Paris. When they were looking for an architect to build it, they held a contest. To everyone’s surprise, a 35-Year-old unknown person Charles Garnier won the contest; therefore the theater is also called Palais Garnier. It took 15 years to build the Opera House and it opened in 1875. Garnier’s design style is a combined style of classical structures of marble and agate and those gorgeous decorations and colors of the Baroque style.

歌剧院的主楼梯是设计师加尼埃为前来看剧的观众而设计的，他认为观众们也是歌剧的一部分，设计那样隆重的很中心的楼梯可以让前来的观众也展示一下他（她）们自己，尤其是女性观众，当她们穿着华丽的裙子走上楼梯的时候，可以彰显她们的绰约风姿。

The grand staircase of Palais Garnier was designed for the audiences who came to see the plays. He considered the audiences as part of the opera, and so the design of the grand and central staircase allows visitors to show themselves off as well; especially the female audience members wearing beautiful dresses who can show their graceful charms while walking up the stairs.

表演厅的色彩采用了红色和金色，拱形的形状借鉴意大利的风格。加尼埃似乎非常观众女性观众在剧院的感受，红色的设计是因为他想到看剧时那淡淡的红色的光会反射到她们的脸上，使那些陶醉的女性观众更加美丽。

The color theme in the auditorium is red and gold; the arched shape borrows from the Italian style. Garnier seemed to pay much attention to the female audiences. The color of red was used because he thought that while they were watching the play, the faint red light will reflect on their faces and make them more beautiful.

圆顶冷饮厅是当时看歌剧的观众休息吃冷饮的地方，厅内挂了8幅画，分别描述茶，咖啡，红酒，水果等，与冷饮厅的功能呼应。

The main hall where the audience can have drinks has eight paintings, respectively describing tea, coffee, red wine, fruit, etc., matching the function of the hall.

主休息室真是金碧辉煌！当时去歌剧院的人也总是惊呼“太多金子了！”  而加尼埃的回答是，其实那些不是真的金子，而是用一种特殊的金色颜料画上去的，那是文艺复兴时期意大利经常用的一种镀金技术，这种技术不仅节省成本，而且比用真金雕刻的艺术品更容易显示细节，更有立体感。

The Grand foyer is magnificent and golden! In fact, the people who went to the Opera house always exclaimed, “Too much gold!”  But Garnier’s answer was that it actually was not real gold. It was a special kind of gold paint which used a commonly known gold-plating technology from the Italian renaissance. This paint was not only cheaper, but also showed much more detail, and was more of a three-dimensional artwork, as compared with using real gold materials.

万神殿葬礼 – Pantheon Burial

这个万神殿 （也有中文翻译为先贤祠，我觉得这两个名字都太有中国味，感觉都不对，就随便用了一个）最初是由法国国王路易十五兴建的，经过过很多变迁，现在是法国很多文化，政治名人的安葬地，卢梭、伏尔泰、雨果、大仲马、居里夫妇都安眠在这里。 很巧合的是这个万神殿就在我俩的民宿住处附近，走路10分钟左右就到了。周四去租车的那天早上，我俩看到警察开始摆设控制交通的路障，还在猜应该是有什么活动要发生。在巴黎周边开车游来回，还车的车库就在万神殿的前面，又看到有很多警察，而且万神殿前面搭设了舞台类的帐篷。PJG便问了一个警察／军人／保安模样的人，他告诉我俩西蒙娜·薇依会被埋葬在万神殿里，周日也就是今天这里要举的葬礼仪式。

The Pantheon was originally built by the French king Louis XV.  After a lot of changes, it is now a burial ground for famous French artists and politicians; Rousseau, Voltaire, Hugo, Alexandre Dumas and Madame Curie and her husband are also buried here. It is a coincidence that the Pantheon is just a few blocks from our Airbnb apartment, its less than a 10 minute walk from here. On Thursday morning, on the way to the rental car place, we saw many workers starting to set up roadblocks to control traffic and we were wondering what was going on. After coming back to Paris, the rental car return garage was just in front of the Pantheon, and again there were many policemen and people were setting up a stage right in front of the Pantheon. PJG asked a on of the guards, who told us that Simone Veil would be buried in the Pantheon, and that the funeral ceremony would be held here on Sunday.

我俩都不知道薇依是谁，在网上查了一下，她还真是一个不简单的人物。她是律师，法国德高望重的女政治家、纳粹集中营的幸存者。她在2017年6月30日巴黎逝世, 享年89岁。 二战期间，作为犹太人的她和家人被抓进集中营，父母和兄弟都被迫害中丧生。二战结束后，她回到法国，开始在巴黎政治学院学习法律。她曾出任法国卫生部长，成为法国第一位担任国务部长的女性，她还曾担任欧洲议会议长，也曾是法国宪法委员会成员之一。 她捍卫女性权利，在她的努力下，于1974年促使堕胎合法化法律在法国通过。

Neither of us knew who she was, but after searching online, we found that she is a very important figure in France. She was a lawyer, a respected female politician, and a survivor of a Nazi concentration camp. She died a year ago in Paris on June 30, 2017 at the age of 89. During World War II, she and her family, as Jews, were put into a concentration camp and both parents and brothers were killed in persecution. After the end of War, she returned to France to study law at the Paris Political Academy.  She served as the French Minister of Health and became the first woman in France to serve as a state minister, she was also the President of the European Parliament and also a member of the French Constitutional Council. She defended women’s rights and, because of her efforts, the legalization of abortion laws was passed in 1974.

今天这个国葬要把薇依和她的丈夫都安葬在这里。我俩打听到今天早上11店葬礼仪式开始举行，我俩赶到的时候万神殿周围已经封路，走路也达不到，绕了一大圈才走到万神殿和卢森堡公园之间的一个让行人光看的地方。这里已经聚集了很多很多的群众。我俩根本找不到可以很好的角度，大部分时间都是在看别人的后脑勺。

This country is going to bury both Veil and her husband here today. We learned that the funeral ceremony will began at 11 in the morning. When we arrived, all of the small roads around the Pantheon were blocked.  A lot of people have been already gathered there. We could not find a good place to watch, most of the time we were just looking at the back of the heads of others.

当我俩终于到了一个可以遥望万神殿的地方，发现～～竟然～～迷人的～～法国总埃～～马纽埃尔·马克龙在讲话！！！ 天啊，马克龙就近在咫尺啊！！  在远处的大屏幕上可以看到他的讲话。PJG发现就在身后的卢森堡公园里也设了一个大屏幕，我俩便快速地去了公园，那里的人竟然没有那么多。在屏幕上看到，总统夫人也前来参加国葬。

When we finally arrived at a place with a better view, between the Pantheon and Luxembourg park, surprisingly~~ we found that ~ ~ ~  the attractive French president ~~ Manuel Macron was doing a speech!!!  OMG, Macron is so close!! We could see his speech on a large screen in the distance. But PJG found that there was also a big screen in the Luxembourg park behind us, and so we quickly went to the park where there were not as many people. On the screen, we could see that the president’s wife also came to attend the burial.

晚上5点多的时候，我出去寻找可以买晚餐的地方，这里的很多店铺都已经关门了，应该是周日的原因。我走着走着竟然走到了万神殿的周围，不过惊喜的发现这里还聚集着众多的人群，在游览关于薇依生平的展示牌。大喇叭里还放着应该是薇依以前的一些语音片段。万神殿门前还拍了长长的等待进殿瞻仰的人们。

After 5 o’clock in the evening, we went out to find a place to buy dinner. Many of the shops here have been closed which we guessed that it was because of being Sunday. We just walked around and unexpectedly passed the Pantheon. Surprisingly, we discovered that there are still a large number of people gathering here, reading the displays about the life of Mrs. Veil. The speakers were broadcasting some previous voice clips of her. In front of the Pantheon, there were a long line where people were waiting to go inside to pay respect.

今天竟然能和法国总统在一处参加一个这么隆重的仪式，真的是一场很奇特的经历。他在致悼词中说：“当一个人的一生献给了正义，特别是为了保护弱者，而这样的一生是在共和国的羽翼下成长，那么是法国这个国家在壮大。”

他说的真好，希望我们在有生之年都能为正义做些什么吧。

It was a very unique experience to be in a same place with the President of France for the event today. He said in his eulogy: “When a person’s life is devoted to justice, especially to protect the weak, and such a life is grown under the wings of the Republic, then the French nation is growing.”

I hope everyone can do something for justice in our lifetimes.