科孚岛第五天 , Corfu Day 5

2022年5月4日,星期三,这次旅行的第16天,科孚岛的第五天

Wednesday, May 4, 2022, Day 16 of this trip, Day 5 in Corfu

早上醒来,又是阳光明媚的一天。今天又是行程满满,原本以为在科孚岛是最放松的一段旅程,每天看着蔚蓝的大海,听着海浪,发呆着思考人生,没想到,每天竟然这样排满了节目。今天去的第一个地方是一个叫做Lucciola的饭店,PJG的家人在1967年来过这里,PJG说他隐约记得饭店院子里的萤火虫。 找到了那家饭店,饭店没有营业,我俩开门进去了,店主先是惊讶地看到两个闯入者,但是PJG给她看了这个饭店的50多年前的照片以后,她也是非常感兴趣,虽然她只是6年前才接手这个饭店,她说她从来没有看到过饭店正面的老照片,并且索要了照片。

We woke up this morning to another beautiful sunny day. Today is a full schedule again. By the way, I thought it was the supposed to be a relaxing journey to Corfu? I look at the blue sea every day, listen to the waves, and ponder about life in a daze. I didn’t expect that every day would be so full of activities. On our way to see the Durrell home, we stopped at a restaurant called Lucciola Gardens where PJG’s family had dinner 1967. PJG said he vaguely remembered seeing fireflies in the backyard of the restaurant. We easily found the restaurant but it was closed. We tried the door and it opened so we went in. The owner of the restaurant, Angeliki, was a bit surprised to see these two intruders, but after PJG showed her the photo of the restaurant from more than 50 years ago, her mood changed to excitement for our visit! Although Angeliki and her husband Yanni only took over the restaurant six years ago, she said that she had never seen any old photos of the front of the hotel before and asked for us to send a copy to her. The owner of the building is the same from 50 years ago, but he was not there at the time.

酒店的非常舒服的椅子,类似于沙袋一样的. Very comfortable chairs on the beach at our hotel, similar to beanbag chairs.
今日份的猫咪,睡在酒店大堂的椅子里. Today’s cat sleeps comfortably in the hotel lobby.
1967年的Lucciola,饭店的名字一直没有变. The Lucciola restaurant from 1967, the name of the restaurant has not changed. PJG is curious why his father took a picture of this restaurant!
今天的Lucciola饭店,显然房子的颜色和大门变了. Today’s Lucciola restaurant – obviously the color of the house and the door have changed.
饭店的院子里, 还没准备好接待客人 The back yard of the restaurant (it was not set up for guests yet)

下一个地点是德雷尔一家的旧址。这个地方的背景和故事就太丰富了,简单而言之地说一下,德雷尔一家是一个英国单亲妈妈露易丝.德雷尔在1935带着她的四个孩子远赴希腊科孚岛定居4年的故事。她的大儿子是一个作家,最小的儿子Gerald Durrell成为了英国博物学家、作家、动物园管理员、环保主义者和电视节目主持人,Gerald Durrell写的关于他们一家在科孚岛生活的自传成为了一个畅销小说,并被拍成了一部26 集的英国系列喜剧电视剧,就叫做《德雷尔一家》,烂番茄评分高达94%。 我俩在去年来到希腊之后,偶然看到了这部电视剧,非常好看,轻松幽默,又很暖心,看得出来在科孚岛上的生活应该是德雷尔一家人一生中最珍贵的岁月。

The next location is the former home of the Durrell family. The background and story of this place is very involved. To put it simply, the Durrell family is headed by a British single mother, Louise Durrell, who took her four children to live in Corfu, Greece in 1935. The story is about their life in Corfu over four years. Her eldest son was a writer and the youngest son Gerald Durrell became a British naturalist, author, zookeeper, conservationist and TV presenter. Gerald Durrell’s autobiography about their family’s life in Corfu became a best-selling novel and was turned into a highly rated 26-episode British TV series called, “The Durrells.” After we came to Greece last October, we came across this TV series by chance. It was a very well done, light-hearted, humorous and very heart-warming series. It depicted their life on Corfu Island as the most precious time in the Durrell family’s life.

PJG曾经看过他父亲拍过的在希腊的照片,但是很多都只是房子或是景色,在看完《德雷尔一家》的英剧之后,他突然意识到,其中一张他父亲拍过的照片应该就是德雷尔一家人住的那栋白房子!现在他明白为什么他父亲拍了那张照片,应该也是被德雷尔一家的故事所吸引,所以今天我俩也去了那里,现在是那里一个旅店加饭店,周围也因为德雷尔一家的故事形成了一个小的商业圈,很多游客也都慕名而来。

PJG had seen the pictures his father took in Corfu, but many of them were just houses or scenery. After watching the TV Series, he realized that one of the pictures his father took was the White House where the Durrell family lived! He now understands why his father took that picture as he must have also been enamored by the Durrell story. So today we visited The White House and it is now a hotel and restaurant. A tourist business has been formed around the area due to the story of the Durrell family attracting many tourists from all over.

《德雷尔一家》的剧照. Photo from the TV series, “The Durrells”
1967年的照片,远处那种白房子就是德雷尔一家当时住的房子,当时很贫穷的露易丝只能租到一个偏远的房子 In the photo from 1967, the White House, where the Durrell family lived can be seen in the distance. Louise Durrell, who had little money, could only afford to rent this remote run-down house.
今天的照片,现在这栋偏远的房子成了科孚岛著名的旅游目的地,也带活了周围的经济,包括后面的一个大酒店. In today’s photo, this remote house has become a famous tourist destination in Corfu, and it has brought life to the surrounding economy including a very large hotel on the hill.
那栋白房子. The White House
墙上挂着的牌子,左边的是大儿子,右边的就是大名鼎鼎的小儿子. The sign hanging on the wall shows the eldest son on the left and the more famous younger son on the right
有一些应主题的小动物的雕像,纪念小儿子曾经在这里办的动物园. There are some small statues of various animals scattered around the area in tribute to animal work of the younger Durrell.
这些沙袋似得椅子都好舒服. These sandbags chairs were also really comfortable!
饭店里挂了一些德雷尔家人的照片. There are some pictures of Durrell family (and other famous films that were filmed here) hanging in the restaurant.
午餐的景色超美. A great view for our lunch.
希腊沙拉和一款本地菜炖牛肉意大利面,这个面条很特别,是空心的. A Greek salad and a local beef stew pasta. The pasta was actually a large hollow noodle like macaroni.

吃完午饭,去了附近的Kouloura,那天在科孚岛古城里逛游的时候,看到一个冰箱贴上有一个有意思的小岛全景图,然后PJG意识到和他父亲拍的一张照片一样!说起Kouloura, 坐落在此的是科孚岛最著名和历史悠久的威尼斯建筑豪宅之一,这座豪宅以及周边地区在 16 世纪属于一个有威尼斯血统的贵族家族 。然后经过几个世纪的转换主人,现在应该是一个私人别墅。

After lunch, we went to the nearby Kouloura village (five minutes away) which is a famous view depicted on many Corfu tourist items. While walking around in the old town of Corfu we saw this famous view depicted on a refrigerator magnet, which then PJG realized was the same as the photo his father took! Kouloura is known for one of the most famous and historic Venetian architectural mansions in Corfu. The mansion and surrounding area belonged to a noble family of Venetian origin in the 16th century.

1967年的照片. Photo from 1967
今天拍这个照片需要找到一个好的角度,因为路边的树木都长的太茂盛了. In my attempt to recreate the photo, it was difficult to find a the right angle, because the trees along the road now are too lush.
下去看Kouloura,路边的饭店. We walked down to see Kouloura, and found this roadside restaurant.
仔细看,可以看到我坐在那个码头边的座椅上 If you look carefully, you will see me sitting on the bench!

离开了Kouloura, 我俩去旧城堡逛了一圈,门票每人6欧元。站在城堡上可以一览科孚岛古城。

After leaving Kouloura, we went to the Old Town to visit the huge fortress. Tickets were 6 euros per person. From the top of the fortress you can see views of the Old Town of Corfu and beyond. PJG doesn’t remember if he visited the fortress before.

古堡入口. The Fortress entrance
这座堡垒由威尼斯人于 15 世纪在一座前拜占庭城堡的遗址上建造。为了让堡垒更安全,他们建造了一个人工沟,将要塞与大陆分开,然后通过一座可移动的木桥与陆地相连。The fortress was built by the Venetians in the 15th century on the site of a former Byzantine castle. To further protect the castle, they built a moat around it, which was then connected by a movable wooden bridge.
左边的高大的钟楼,历史学家认为这里曾经有一座古老的寺庙. The tall clock tower on the left historians believe was part of an ancient temple.
古时候的大炮,说明上写着这个大炮的射程能达到1英里远. An old cannon: the description states that the cannon could fire up to a mile away!
科孚岛古城. The Old Town of Corfu
古城前面的斯皮亚纳达广场,希腊最大的广场. Spianada Square in front of the Old Town. It is the largest square in Greece.

昨晚The Village Taverna的老板说会给我买一条新鲜的鱼,然后给我做当地一道菜叫Bourdeto,当然是不在他们的菜单上的,所以今晚又去那里吃饭完啦,哈哈,已经是连续第五次去了。 明晚他说会给我做兔子肉,也是不在菜单上的。

Yesterday at dinner, the owner of The Village Taverna said that he would buy me a fresh fish and prepare a local dish called Bourdeto. (Which was not on their menu.) So tonight we went to eat there again, haha! It’s already the fifth time in a row. Tomorrow night he said he would prepare a rabbit dish for me, which is also not on their menu.

今晚的前菜,炸芝士和青口. Tonight’s starter, fried goat cheese and mussels
PJG的羊肉. PJG’s Leg of Lamb
我的Bourdeto, 其实就是辣的西红柿酱,鱼非常新鲜,但是酱料的味道还好吧,没有什么惊艳的. My Bourdeto is actually a spicy tomato sauce. The fish was very fresh, but the taste of the sauce was just ok, nothing amazing.

还没想好明天去哪里,但是我已经感觉到我应该不会只坐在海边发呆,晚安吧。

We haven’t figured out where we will go tomorrow, but something tells me we won’t just sit around and relax around at the hotel! Good night.

4 thoughts on “科孚岛第五天 , Corfu Day 5”

  1. 有趣又美好的一天!真快 都第十五天了。
    景色宜人。
    你的照片拍的很好。

  2. I don’t remember visiting any of these places, but your photos are lovely and make we want to visit!
    Why did you send James so far away so you could sit alone on a bench? We need a proper photo of you smiling for the camera! It is very nice to have a chef prepare you special meals even if they are not super delicious. It gives you a sense of the local cuisine.

    Ask about when the cats were first allowed to roam so free on the island in Greece. I don’t remember any stray cats back in 1967 or 69, I’m sure they would have been seared into my memory.

      1. I didn’t know this blog was public. I thought you could only see it after being invited.

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