“众神诞生之地”金字塔Teotihuacan Pyramids

2023年11月27日，星期一，墨西哥城之旅第四天 November 27, 2023, Monday, fourth day of the Mexico City trip.

今天我和PJG八点半就出发，踏上了通往古老神秘的圣城特奥蒂瓦坎的旅程，这一天的行程充满了历史的回响和现代的享受。我俩的旅程从一辆Uber开始，穿梭于墨西哥城的街道，直至北部的汽车站，在那里换乘前往“众神诞生之地”的大巴，车票很便宜，往返每人120墨西哥比索。坐在摇晃的大巴上，窗外的景色渐渐从都市的喧嚣转变为开阔的乡野，彷佛我们正驶离现实，驶向历史。一个多小时后，我们来到了“众神诞生之地”——特奥蒂瓦坎。

Today, PJG and I set out at 8:30 AM on a journey to the ancient and mystical city of Teotihuacan, a day filled with echoes of both history and modern enjoyment. Our journey began with an Uber ride, weaving through the streets of Mexico City, heading to the northern bus station.

There, we switched to a bus bound for the ‘Birthplace of the Gods,’ with the round-trip fare being very affordable at 120 Mexican Pesos per person. Sitting on the swaying bus, the view outside the window gradually shifted from the urban hustle to the expansive countryside, as if we were leaving reality behind and heading towards history. After a little over an hour, we arrived at ‘The Birthplace of the Gods’ — Teotihuacan.

在8号入口处的售票窗口，我俩的大巴，和停车时上来卖小吃的小贩 At the ticket window at Entrance 8, our bus, and the vendors who came up to sell snacks when the bus stopped.

特奥蒂瓦坎（Teotihuacán）是古代美洲最神秘和壮观的考古遗址之一，在1978年被列入世界文化遗址，位于墨西哥城东北部50公里处。它的名字来源于纳瓦特尔语，意为“众神的诞生地”，这个名字是后来的阿兹特克人给予的，反映了他们对这座古城的敬畏和神话般的理解。特奥蒂瓦坎的历史可以追溯到公元前1世纪，约在公元1世纪到7世纪达到鼎盛时期。它是当时美洲最大的城市之一，也是世界上最大的城市之一，估计曾经有超过10万居民。这座城市的规模和影响力覆盖了整个中美洲地区，对后来的玛雅文明和阿兹特克文明都产生了深远的影响。

Teotihuacán is one of the most mysterious and spectacular archaeological sites in North America, listed as a World Cultural Heritage site in 1987 and located 50 kilometers northeast of Mexico City. Its name comes from Nahuatl, meaning ‘the Birthplace of the Gods,’ a name later given by the Aztecs, reflecting their awe and mythical understanding of this ancient city. The history of Teotihuacan can be traced back to the 1st century BC, reaching its peak around the 1st to 7th centuries AD. It was one of the largest cities in North America at the time, as well as one of the largest in the world, estimated to have had over 100,000 residents. The scale and influence of this city covered the entire Mesoamerican region, profoundly impacting later civilizations like the Maya and the Aztecs.

这里最著名的是其壮观的太阳金字塔、月亮金字塔和羽蛇神庙。太阳金字塔是该城市和整个美洲最大的建筑，其庞大的体量和精细的建造技艺展示了古代特奥蒂瓦坎人的工艺水平。它的确切用途至今仍是一个谜，但根据考古学家和历史学家的研究，可以推测它可能具有宗教和仪式用途，政治和社会功能或者公共集会的场所。太阳金字塔的高度约为65，大约有243个台阶。十年前PJG的大哥大嫂来这里的时候，游客还允许攀登到塔顶，可惜自从新冠以来，这种亲密接触的行为就不可能发生了。

The most famous features here are the spectacular Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon, and Temple of the Feathered Serpent. The Pyramid of the Sun is the largest structure in the city and all of the Americas, its immense size and refined construction techniques showcasing the craftsmanship of the ancient Teotihuacans. Its exact purpose remains a mystery, but according to archaeologists and historians, it is speculated to have religious and ceremonial uses, political and social functions, or served as a public gathering place. The Pyramid of the Sun is about 65 meters tall, with approximately 243 steps. Ten years ago, when PJG’s brother and sister-in-law visited, tourists were allowed to climb to the top of the pyramid, but unfortunately, such close contact activities have been impossible since the pandemic.

现在我们所看到的特奥蒂瓦坎金字塔与古时候的状态存在一些显著的区别，比如最明显的是外观和装饰。古代的时候，这些金字塔有着更加丰富的外部装饰，表面可能被涂成鲜艳的颜色和绘画，而现在看到的是褪色或完全失色的石块。另外，金字塔上原本装饰有雕刻精美的石板和其他艺术作品，随着时间的流逝，这些装饰已经损坏或消失。还有一个重要的区别是结构的完整性，由于长期的风化、侵蚀以及可能的人为破坏，现在的金字塔结构不如古代时期完整。一些原有的部分可能已经坍塌或遗失。

The Teotihuacan pyramids we see today differ significantly from their ancient state, particularly in appearance and decoration. In ancient times, these pyramids had much richer external decorations, with surfaces possibly painted in vibrant colors and adorned with paintings. What we see now are faded or completely discolored stones. Additionally, the pyramids were originally decorated with artwork painted on a plastered covering, which has been damaged or washed away over time. Another important difference is in the integrity of the structures. Due to long-term weathering, erosion, and possible human damage, the current pyramid structures are not as intact as in ancient times. Some original parts may have collapsed or been lost.

月亮金字塔（Pyramid of the Moon）位于被称为“死亡大道”的古代街道的北端，是特奥蒂瓦坎考古遗址的另一座重要金字塔，位于特奥蒂瓦坎的北端，与太阳金字塔相呼应。尽管它比太阳金字塔略小，但仍然是一座令人印象深刻的建筑，充满了神秘感和历史价值。月亮金字塔高约43米，考古学家发现，金字塔的基础最早可能建于公元前200年左右，之后在不同时期经过多次扩建和改造。在金字塔和周围区域的考古发掘中，发现了许多重要的遗物和信息，包括人类遗骨、动物遗骸、陶器、珠宝等，这些发现为研究特奥蒂瓦坎的文化和仪式提供了重要线索。

The Pyramid of the Moon, located at the northern end of the ancient street known as the ‘Avenue of the Dead,’ is another significant pyramid in the Teotihuacan archaeological site, situated at the northern end of Teotihuacan and corresponding to the Pyramid of the Sun. Although slightly smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, it is still an impressive structure, filled with a sense of mystery and historical value. The Pyramid of the Moon is about 43 meters high, and archaeologists have discovered that its foundation was likely first built around 200 BC, with several expansions and modifications in different periods afterward. Archaeological excavations around the pyramid and the surrounding area have unearthed many important artifacts and pieces of information, including human remains, animal bones, pottery, jewelry, etc., providing crucial clues for studying the culture and rituals of Teotihuacan.

走在特奥蒂瓦坎的死亡大道上，会被一种深深的敬畏感所包围。这条古老的街道，延伸在太阳金字塔和月亮金字塔之间，仿佛是一条连接过去与现在的时光隧道。两旁的金字塔巍峨耸立，它们的雄伟让我俩感到自己的渺小，仿佛一瞬间被带回了数千年前的辉煌时期。虽然现在不能亲自踏上金字塔的台阶，但仅仅站在它们的底部，抬头仰望，就足以感受到它们的威严和历史的厚重。虽然时间已将这座城市的辉煌掩埋，但走在这里，我俩仍能感受到一种跨越千年的连接，特奥蒂瓦坎不只是一座古城，它是时间的见证者，是人类智慧和精神的永恒印记。

Walking on the Avenue of the Dead in Teotihuacan, one is surrounded by a deep sense of awe. This ancient street, stretching between the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, seems like a time tunnel connecting the past with the present. The pyramids towering on both sides make us feel our insignificance, as if we were instantly transported back to their glorious days thousands of years ago. Although we can no longer climb the steps of the pyramids, just standing at their base and looking up is enough to feel their majesty and the weight of history. Time may have buried the splendor of this city, but walking here, we could still feel a connection that transcends millennia. Teotihuacan is not just an ancient city; it’s a testament to time, a perpetual mark of human intelligence and spirit.

参观完这些令人叹为观止的古迹后，我俩坐Uber去了Cityzen餐厅，那里是观赏天使独立纪念碑的绝佳地点。两杯啤酒，像是对这次时空穿梭的庆祝，我们举杯向那些千年前的建筑工人们致敬。从这个高度望下去，独立天使纪念碑显得格外引人注目，周围是不断流动的车辆和行人，形成了一幅动静结合的都市画卷。

After visiting these awe-inspiring ancient sites, we took an Uber to the Cityzen restaurant back in Mexico City, an excellent spot to view the Angel of Independence monument. Two beers in hand, it was like a celebration of our time-traveling journey, a toast to the builders from a millennium ago. From this height, the Angel of Independence monument was particularly striking, surrounded by the constant flow of vehicles and pedestrians, creating a dynamic and still urban tableau.

天使独立纪念碑是这座城市的骄傲和标志。建于1910年，以纪念墨西哥从西班牙独立100周年，这座36米高的雄伟纪念碑由著名建筑师安东尼奥·里瓦斯·梅尔卡多设计。其最引人注目的部分是顶端的胜利女神雕像，她手持桂冠和三叉戟，象征着胜利与自由。纪念碑的基座内部珍藏着墨西哥独立战争英雄的遗骸，使之成为国家自豪感和尊严的象征。每年的独立日，这里都会举行盛大的庆典活动，独立天使纪念碑不仅是墨西哥城的一座纪念性建筑，更是整个国家历史和文化的见证者。

The Angel of Independence monument is a pride and symbol of this city. Built in 1910 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Mexico’s independence from Spain, this majestic 36-meter-tall monument was designed by the famous architect Antonio Rivas Mercado. Its most striking feature is the statue of the Victory Goddess at the top, holding a laurel wreath and a trident, symbolizing victory and freedom. Inside the base of the monument are the remains of heroes from the Mexican War of Independence, making it a symbol of national pride and dignity. Grand celebrations are held here every Independence Day. The Angel of Independence monument is not just a commemorative structure in Mexico City but a witness to the nation’s history and culture.

夜幕降临，我俩步行回酒店，在附近的一家墨西哥餐厅享用晚餐，这顿饭不仅是对味蕾的享受，也是对一天探索的完美收官。 As night fell, we took a thirty minute walk back to our hotel and enjoyed dinner at a nearby Mexican restaurant. This meal was not only a delight for our taste buds but also a perfect conclusion to a day of exploration.

今天的游览不仅仅是对墨西哥城的一次物理上的穿越，更是一次心灵上的旅行。我俩在这里经历了历史的回响，感受了文化的脉动，这一切都将成为我们记忆中珍贵的一部分。

Today’s tour was not just a physical journey through Mexico City, but also a spiritual one. We experienced echoes of history and felt the pulse of culture, all of which will become a cherished part of our memories.