利马第二天 Day 2 in Lima

2024年12月1日，星期日，利马之旅第三天

Sunday, December 1, 2024: The Third Day of Our Lima Journey

今天的行程安排得很充实，目标是参观政府宫。早在家时，PJG便通过邮件向政府宫预约参观，预约过程非常顺利，成功订到了今天上午9:45的参观团。我们早上乘坐Uber，用了20多分钟便抵达了利马的历史中心区。

Today’s itinerary was packed with plans, with the highlight being a visit to the Government Palace. Back at home, PJG had successfully secured a reservation for the 9:45am tour by emailing the palace directly—a process that went surprisingly smoothly. In the morning, we took an Uber and arrived at Lima’s historic center in just over 20 minutes.

利马的政府宫，静静伫立于历史悠久的武器广场上，是秘鲁总统的官邸和国家权力的象征。这座宫殿最初由西班牙殖民者弗朗西斯科·皮萨罗于1535年修建，历经几个世纪的变迁与翻新，成为现在的政府建筑。

The Government Palace of Lima stands serenely in the historic Plaza de Armas, serving as both the residence of the President of Peru and a symbol of national power. Originally constructed in 1535 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the palace has undergone centuries of transformation and renovation to become the grand government building it is today.

参观是免费的，我们到达时，门前已经排起了队伍。到了预约时间，工作人员会出来叫游客的名字。我和门口的警察用谷歌翻译艰难交流时，工作人员把我俩带了进去。参观规定不能携带任何电子设备，我们将背包和手机等寄存在前台后，通过了安检，然后在一个房间里等待。大约10点左右，参观团正式开始。遗憾的是，讲解员全程只讲西班牙语，我完全听不懂，只能凭借眼睛和想象力去感受这座建筑的魅力。

The tour was free, and by the time we arrived, a line had already formed outside the entrance. At the scheduled time, staff members came out to call the names of the visitors. While I was struggling to communicate with the police at the gate using Google translate, the staff called our names and led us inside.

The tour had strict rules prohibiting electronic devices, so we left our backpacks and phones at the front desk before passing through security. Afterward, we waited in a designated room until the tour officially began around 10 a.m. Unfortunately, the guide spoke only Spanish throughout the tour, which of course I couldn’t understand at all. I had to rely on my eyes and imagination to appreciate the beauty and charm of the building.

政府宫中整体风格感觉奢华而典雅，巨大的水晶吊灯，金色雕饰，大理石地板和雕刻精美的木制家具，屋顶射进阳光的彩绘玻璃。在一间会议室内，一幅巨大的画像吸引了我，画中是一位看起来像秘鲁本土人的肖像。我询问身边的一位游客是否能用英语交流，另一位游客简单地告诉我，这人正是图帕克·阿马鲁二世（Túpac Amaru II），秘鲁历史上的英雄，是反抗西班牙殖民统治的象征人物。他领导起义对抗殖民者的不公与压迫，但最终被西班牙殖民者以极其残忍的方式处死——四马分尸。这个游团让人意外的是讲解员竟然给我们拍照留念！ 太惊喜了，虽然不允许带手机，总算留下了一些纪念。

The Government Palace exudes an air of luxury and elegance, with its grand crystal chandeliers, gold embellishments, marble floors, and intricately carved wooden furniture. Sunlight streams through the stained glass ceilings, casting vibrant colors into the space.

In one of the meeting rooms, a massive portrait caught my attention—a figure who appeared to be a native Peruvian. Curious, I asked a nearby visitor if they spoke English. She kindly explained that the man in the painting was Túpac Amaru II, a Peruvian hero and symbol of resistance against Spanish colonial rule. He led a rebellion against the injustices and oppression of the colonizers but was ultimately executed in a brutal manner – drawn and quartered.

To my surprise, the tour guide offered to take multiple group photo for us in various rooms! It was an unexpected delight, especially since phones weren’t allowed, leaving us with a rare keepsake to remember this experience.

参观完政府宫后，我们在武器广场附近悠闲地漫步，感受着这片古老街区的历史气息。广场四周，有很多座蒙面女性的雕塑静静伫立，她们身着各式传统服饰，仅露出一只眼睛，透出一丝神秘与优雅。网上搜到了一些相关信息，才得知这些雕像源于利马殖民时期一种独特的文化现象。这些女性被称为Tapadas Limeñas，她们身穿西班牙风格的长袍，以丝质头巾遮盖头部与面部，只留下那一瞥如画的眼神。从17世纪到19世纪，这种服饰风靡一时，既是宗教与社会礼仪的产物，也成为一种含蓄迷人的风尚，代表着那个时代利马女性的身份表达。如今，这些身影被定格在雕塑和艺术作品中，成为秘鲁传统与历史的象征。

After visiting the Government Palace, we took a leisurely stroll around Plaza de Armas, soaking in the historical atmosphere of this ancient district. Surrounding the square, numerous statues of veiled women stood silently, their traditional attire revealing only one eye, exuding an air of mystery and elegance.

Curious, I searched online for more information and discovered that these statues represent a unique cultural phenomenon from Lima’s colonial era. These women, known as Tapadas Limeñas, wore Spanish-style gowns and silk mantles that covered their heads and faces, leaving only a single eye visible—a gaze as captivating as a painting.

From the 17th to the 19th century, this style was both a product of religious and social customs and a fashionable expression of subtle allure, symbolizing the identity of Lima’s women during that time. Today, these figures have been immortalized in sculptures and artwork, serving as a symbol of Peru’s rich tradition and history.

正值正午时分，12点整，政府宫前的士兵换岗仪式准时开始。这场每天上演的庄严仪式，据说可以追溯到20世纪初，其灵感源自欧洲宫殿的卫兵交接传统。不过，这场换岗仪式与我俩在其他国家看到的相比，有些遗憾的是，它是在高高的黑色栏杆后面举行的，想要拍摄到高质量的照片和视频并不容易。

At precisely noon, the Changing of the Guard ceremony at the Government Palace began as scheduled. This solemn daily ritual is said to date back to the early 20th century, inspired by the guard-changing traditions of European palaces. However, compared to similar ceremonies we’ve seen in other countries, this one had a slight drawback—it was conducted behind tall black iron railings, making it difficult to capture proper photos or videos.

看完庄严的换岗仪式，我们在广场附近的一家餐厅享用了一顿简单的午餐。这种地方自然是游客价，加上游客味。说到秘鲁美食，不得不提到一种深受中国菜影响的菜系——Chifa，是的，就是中文“吃饭”的谐音，饱含着文化交融的韵味。19世纪中后期，大批中国移民，尤其是来自广东的工人，漂洋过海来到秘鲁。他们将传统中餐的烹饪技艺与当地的食材结合，逐渐发展出了这一风味独特的菜系。

After watching the Changing of the Guard ceremony, we headed to a nearby restaurant on the plaza for a simple lunch. As expected in such areas, the food came with tourist prices and, unfortunately, a touristy flavor. Speaking of Peruvian cuisine, one must mention Chifa, a culinary tradition deeply influenced by Chinese cuisine. The name itself, derived from the Chinese word “吃饭” (chīfàn), carries a subtle charm of cultural fusion. In the late 19th century, large numbers of Chinese immigrants, particularly workers from the southern province of Guangdong, crossed the oceans to Peru. They brought with them the rich traditions of Chinese cooking, which, when blended with local Peruvian ingredients, evolved into this unique and flavorful cuisine that continues to thrive today.

这两盘便是chifa，炒鸡肉和炒牛肉饭，味道一般般了。These two dishes are Chifa classics: stir-fried chicken and beef fried rice. The flavors, however, were rather average.

带着一身疲惫，我们乘坐Uber返回了民宿，稍作休息后，便前往拉尔科马尔购物中心。挑了一家还有靠窗座位的餐厅，坐下后点了一杯皮斯科酸酒和一瓶啤酒，满心期待地准备在夕阳余晖下享受这片刻的悠闲时光。然而，天公不作美，厚重的雾霭笼罩着太平洋，云层深锁了黄昏的光影。只有片刻的，太阳的光芒从云层的缝隙中挣脱出来，短暂地洒下了几抹日落的柔光，让人感到一丝遗憾。

Exhausted from the day, we took an Uber back to our Airbnb for a brief rest before heading to the Larcomar Shopping Center. We chose a restaurant with window-side seating, ordered a Pisco Sour and a beer, and eagerly prepared to enjoy a serene moment under the sunset’s glow. However, nature had other plans. Thick fog blanketed the South Pacific Ocean, and dense clouds obscured the golden hues of dusk. For just a fleeting moment, the sun’s rays broke through the gaps, casting a few soft beams of light before fading away. It was beautiful, yet left us unsatisfied.

晚餐选在了一家名为Amankaya的秘鲁餐厅，位于一栋建于1920年的小楼里。没有预约，餐厅里人不多，我们幸运地被安排在二楼的小阳台座位，环境颇为惬意。菜品中不乏创意之作，其中最好吃的要数PJG点的海鲜饭，鲜香浓郁，令人回味无穷。

We chose to have dinner at a Peruvian restaurant called Amankaya, nestled in a charming building dating back to 1920. Without a reservation, we were fortunate to find the restaurant fairly quiet and were given a cozy table on a small balcony on the second floor. The ambiance was delightful. The menu featured some creative dishes, but the highlight was undoubtedly the Paella seafood rice ordered by PJG—rich, flavorful, and satisfying.

All in all, a very satisfying day in Lima!