Food in Malaysia 吃在马来西亚

2024年5月24日，星期五，从马来西亚归来的第六天

Friday, May 24, 2024, the sixth day after returning from Malaysia

今天是公司的身心健康休息日，无需投身工作的洪流，可以静下心来，总结一下在马来西亚尝过的诸多美味。时光匆匆，自从归来已是第六个清晨，我们已重归家中的日常节奏。那曾经属于每天的仪式——一边工作一边在漆黑的夜空渐退中迎接海边的日出，似乎已经变成了一个遥远的回忆。现在，清晨坐在沙发上，手握一杯热茶，眼前是熟悉的窗外院子的一片生机。青草如织，小兔子与小松鼠在早晨的微光中追逐嬉戏，这一幕温馨而宁静的田园诗，正是我亦新亦旧的日常所在。

Today is the company’s Wellness Day, and so there’s no need to plunge into the flow of work. I can calm down and summarize the many delicacies we’ve tasted in Malaysia and relive the experience. Time flies, and it’s already the sixth morning since our return.

We have returned to the daily rhythm of our home. The ritual that once belonged to every day – welcoming the sunrise by the sea while working in the fading dark night sky – seems to have become a distant memory. Now, sitting on the couch in the morning with a cup of hot tea in my hand, I see the familiar vitality of the yard outside our window. The grass is like a weave, and the little rabbits and squirrels chase and play in the morning light. This warm and peaceful pastoral scene is where my both new and old daily life takes place.

马来西亚，亚洲美食的天堂，一个让各式各样的亚洲美食悉数登场的热闹舞台。这里，你可以尝到色香味俱佳的各种马来小吃，独具特色的娘惹菜，酸辣诱人的泰国菜，香料丰富的印度菜，经典的中国菜，多样的印度尼西亚菜，还有清新的越南菜。在槟城，美食无处不在：从街头的小摊到旋转餐厅，从简朴的小饭店到奢华的高档日料，这个城市的遍地开花的美食中心以它们令人难以抗拒的美味和令人惊喜的价格闻名遐迩。在槟城度过的三个月里，我俩大快朵颐，尝试了很多地道美食。现在我想要总结一下那些我最喜欢的，以及几个来槟城必尝的小吃。这些美食不仅是味蕾的享受，也深深地刻画了这个地方的文化和生活方式。

Malaysia, a paradise for Asian cuisine, is a lively stage where all kinds of Asian delicacies make their appearance. Here, you can taste various delicious Malaysian dishes, unique Nyonya cuisine (pronounced Nee-Yon-Nee-Ya), sour and spicy Thai dishes, spice-rich Indian food, classic Chinese dishes, diverse Indonesian cuisine, and refreshing Vietnamese dishes. In Penang, delicious food is everywhere: from street stalls to revolving restaurants, from simple small restaurants to luxurious high-end Japanese restaurants. The city’s ubiquitous Hawker centers are known far and wide for their irresistible delicacies and very affordable prices. During the three months we spent in Penang, we indulged in a lot of authentic local food. So in this post, I want to summarize some of my favorites, and a few must-try dishes, for anyone visiting Penang. These dishes are not only a treat for the taste buds but also deeply portray the culture and lifestyle of this foodie paradise. I’ve also assigned a 0 to 5 star rating for each dish.

我的最爱之一：肉骨茶；一种源自马来西亚和新加坡的传统汤料理，主要由猪肉排或猪骨与多种草药和香料煮成。这些草药通常包括当归、肉桂、星茴香和丁香等，它们共同为肉骨茶带来了一种独特的香气和药用价值。肉骨茶的名字直译为“肉骨茶”，其中“茶”并不指真正的茶叶，而是指搭配这道菜时常喝的茶，以帮助消化和解腻。

One of my favorites: Bak Kut Teh; a traditional soup dish originating from Malaysia and Singapore, primarily made by cooking pork ribs or bones with various herbs and spices. These herbs typically include angelica, cinnamon, star anise, and cloves, which together impart a unique aroma and medicinal value to the Bak Kut Teh. The name “Bak Kut Teh” directly translates to “meat bone tea,” where “tea” doesn’t refer to actual tea leaves but rather the tea commonly consumed alongside this dish to aid digestion and cut through the richness.

五星推荐；价格在20-30马币之间，每个饭店的配料有些不同，基本有猪排骨，肉丸，五花肉，金针菇，豆腐泡等，陪着米饭，喝着浓郁的肉汤，真的是美味至极。

Five-star recommendation; prices range between 20-30 Ringgit. Each restaurant has slightly different ingredients, but they generally include pork ribs, meatballs, pork belly, enoki mushrooms, tofu puffs, etc. Paired with rice and sipping on the rich meat broth, it is truly an extremely delicious dish.

Three varieties of Bak Kut Teh

我的最爱之二：冰沙类甜点；在马来西亚和新加坡都极为流行。这种甜点以削冰为基础，上面会浇上各种颜色的糖浆，如红豆、玉米、草莓糖浆或燕窝糖浆，凝固的果冻、红豆、玉米粒或其他果肉，再顶层撒上炼乳或椰奶增加风味。我最的加在上面的是芋圆，棕榈籽和珍珠。

五星推荐：价格在5-10马币。

My second favorite: Ice Kacang; extremely popular in both Malaysia and Singapore. This dessert is based on shaved ice, topped with various colorful syrups such as red bean, corn syrup, strawberry syrup, or bird’s nest syrup (no not a real birds nest), along with jellies, red beans, sweet corn, or other fruit pieces. The top layer is sprinkled with condensed milk and/or coconut milk to enhance the flavor. My favorite toppings are taro balls, palm seeds, and tapioca pearls.

Five-star recommendation: Prices range from 5-10 Ringgit.

出乎意料的美味：娘惹菜；一种独特的美食风格，融合了中华料理和马来西亚及印尼的烹饪手法，代表了马来西亚特别是马六甲和槟城地区的中马混血娘惹（Peranakan）文化。娘惹文化起源于几个世纪前，华人移民与马来半岛的当地人结婚，随之诞生了这种独特的混合文化和风味。娘惹菜以其复杂的制作工艺、香料的丰富运用以及酸、甜、辣等味道的独特结合而闻名。常用的食材包括椰奶、香茅、南姜、虾酱和辣椒等。这些配料共同创造出一道道色香味俱全的菜肴。我俩的最爱是猪肉或牛肉兰当，我买了几袋兰当酱，有待检验味道如何。

五星推荐；两个人餐，三道菜，价格在89-100马币

Surprisingly delicious: Nyonya cuisine; a unique culinary style that combines Chinese cooking techniques with Malaysian and Indonesian influences, representing the Peranakan (Chinese-Malay mixed-race) culture of Malaysia, particularly in the Malacca and Penang regions. Peranakan culture originated several centuries ago when Chinese immigrants married local Malay Peninsula inhabitants, giving birth to this unique fusion of culture and flavors. Nyonya cuisine is renowned for its complex preparation techniques, rich use of spices, and distinctive combination of sour, sweet, and spicy flavors. Common ingredients include coconut milk, lemongrass, galangal, shrimp paste, and chili peppers. These ingredients come together to create dishes that are a feast for the senses. Our favorites were the pork or beef rendang. I bought a few packets of rendang paste to bring back, and it remains to be seen how tasty they are here.

Five-star recommendation; a meal for two with three dishes ranges from 89-100 Ringgit.

我喜爱的烤魔鬼鱼。这是一道几乎每个美食中心都会有的海鲜摊位的一道必不可少的菜，风味独特，魔鬼鱼肉质鲜美，既有鱼的鲜味也有烧烤的香气，加上独特的叁巴酱，是许多人喜爱的海鲜佳肴。PJG也很喜欢因为这个鱼几乎没有鱼刺。

4.5星推荐；价格要看鱼的重量，一般两个人吃的分量在20-40马币。

My beloved Grilled Stingray. This is a must-have dish at almost every seafood stall in the Hawker centers, with a very unique flavor. Stingray meat is fresh and delicious, having both the freshness of fish and the aroma of grilling. Paired with the special sambal sauce, it is a seafood delicacy loved by many; including PJG because this fish has almost no bones to deal with!

4.5-star recommendation; the price depends on the weight of the fish, typically ranging from 20-40 Ringgit for a portion suitable for two people.

The Northam Beach Hawker Center

我的最爱之三：家式饭店的葱姜鱼。被炸的外酥里嫩的石斑鱼配上小葱，大蒜和黄豆酱，其美味真是难以抗拒。在我们搬到第二个公寓后的两个月里，我们一共点了这道菜四次。每次品尝，都是一次舌尖上的享受，让我回味无穷。

五星推荐；一份是90马币。

My third favorite: Scallion-ginger fish from the Jia Shi Restaurant. The irresistible deliciousness comes from the crispy on the outside and tender on the inside fried grouper, paired with scallions, garlic, and yellow bean sauce. During the two months after we moved to our second apartment, we ordered this dish a total of four times. Each time we tasted it, it was a delightful experience that left me savoring the flavors.

Five-star recommendation; one order costs 90 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：福建面，也是我比较喜欢的一道面食。源自中国福建省的一种传统面食，通常使用两种粗细的面条，搭配海鲜（如虾、鱿鱼和蚬）、肉类（通常是猪肉或鸡肉）以及蔬菜（如白菜和豆芽）。这些材料先分别进行炒制，然后与面条一起快速翻炒，最关键的是加入浓郁的酱汁，这种酱汁一般由鸡肉汤、酱油、鱼露和其他调味料调制而成，赋予整道菜香浓而充满层次的味道。

4星推荐；价格在7-10马币。

A famous Malaysian dish: Hokkien Mee, also a delicious noodle dish. Originating from China’s Fujian Province, this traditional noodle dish usually uses two types of noodles in different thicknesses, paired with seafood (such as shrimp, squid, and clams), meat (usually pork or chicken), and vegetables (like cabbage and bean sprouts). These ingredients are first stir-fried separately, then quickly stir-fried together with the noodles. The key is adding a rich gravy, which is typically made from chicken stock, soy sauce, fish sauce, and other seasonings, giving the entire dish a fragrant and layered flavor.

4-star recommendation; prices range from 7-10 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：炒粿条；这是一道来到马来西亚逢人必推荐的街头小吃，是一种从米浆制成的宽平面条，质地柔软且有弹性。粿条与酱油、蒜末、豆芽、鸡蛋和一些蔬菜一起快速炒制。还常加入虾、猪肉片或鱼饼等肉类，炒制过程中高温快炒使得粿条表面略带焦香，而内部则保持了软糯的口感。炒粿条色泽诱人，风味层次丰富，是一道简单却极具吸引力的美食。

3星推荐；价格7-12马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Char Kuey Teow; this is a street food that is a must-recommend to anyone visiting Malaysia. It is a type of wide, flat rice noodle with a soft and springy texture, made from rice batter. The kuey teow noodle is quickly stir-fried with soy sauce, minced garlic, bean sprouts, eggs, and some vegetables. It is also common to add shrimp, sliced pork, or fish cakes for protein. The high-heat stir-frying process gives the kuey teow a slightly charred flavor on the surface while maintaining a soft and sticky texture inside. Char Kuey Teow has an attractive appearance and a rich layered flavor, making it a simple yet highly appealing dish.

3-star recommendation; prices range from 7-12 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：白咖喱面；汤底通常使用椰奶，配合自制的咖喱酱，这种咖喱酱是用混合的香料如姜黄、香茅、姜、蒜、和辣椒等研磨而成。这样制作出来的汤底色泽金黄，香气扑鼻，味道浓郁。面条通常会配鸡肉、虾、鱼丸、豆腐泡和豆芽等。为了增加口感和色彩，会撒上少许薄荷叶、香菜和炸葱。

4星推荐；价格7-10马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Curry Mee (White Curry Noodles); the broth is usually made with coconut milk and homemade curry paste, which is ground from a mix of spices such as turmeric, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, and chili peppers. The resulting broth has a golden color, a fragrant aroma, and a rich flavor. The noodles are usually served with chicken, shrimp, fish balls, tofu puffs, and bean sprouts. To add texture and color, a small amount of mint leaves, cilantro, and fried shallots are sprinkled on top.

4-star recommendation; prices range from 7-10 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：炸鸡椰浆饭；是马来西亚的一道标志性美食，被广泛认为的国菜之一，意为“油饭”，因椰奶煮成的饭粒而得名，带有浓郁的香气和丰富的口感。这道菜的核心在于椰奶饭，通常与香兰叶一起烹饪，增添了饭的香气。另一个不可或缺的部分是辣椒酱（Sambal），这种由辣椒、洋葱、大蒜和虾酱制成的酱料，赋予椰浆饭其特有的辛辣味。常见的配菜包括煎蛋、炸小鱼、烤花生和小黄瓜片。

4星推荐；价格10-15马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Nasi Lemak; it is an iconic Malaysian dish, widely considered one of their national dishes. The name means “fatty rice,” referring to the rice grains cooked in coconut milk, which gives it a rich aroma and flavor. The core of this dish is the coconut milk rice, usually cooked with pandan leaves to add fragrance. Another essential component is the chili paste (Sambal), made from chili peppers, onions, garlic, and shrimp paste, giving the coconut milk rice its distinctive spicy taste. Common side dishes include fried eggs, fried anchovies, roasted peanuts, and sliced cucumbers.

4-star recommendation; prices range from 10-15 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：蚝煎；东南亚特别是台湾、中国福建省以及新加坡、马来西亚等地的一种受欢迎的街头小吃。这道菜结合了新鲜蚝肉和蛋，以及独特的淀粉糊，烹饪出既有嚼劲又满载海鲜鲜味的一道美食。

2星推荐，我俩都不是很喜欢生蚝的口感，价格见下图

Another famous Malaysian dish: Oyster Omelet; a popular street food in Southeast Asia, especially in Taiwan, China’s Fujian Province, Singapore, Malaysia, and other regions. This dish combines fresh oysters and eggs with a unique starch slurry, creating a delicacy that is both chewy and full of seafood flavors.

2-star recommendation; neither of us really enjoys the slimy texture of the raw oysters. The prices are shown in the image below.

马来西亚著名早餐：印度煎饼; 是一道广受欢迎的传统印度穆斯林食品，起源于南印度。这种轻薄、多层的面饼由面粉、水、盐和少量的糖混合制成，其中还常常加入椰奶或黄油以增加风味和质地的丰富性。印度煎饼通常作为早餐或茶点食用，可以单吃，也可搭配各种咖喱。

5星推荐，我和PJG一共早起去距离公寓很近的街边摊吃了两次；价格一份配咖喱酱的经典鸡蛋煎饼1.5马币，鸡蛋薄煎饼2.5马币

A famous Malaysian breakfast: Roti Canai; a popular traditional Indian Muslim food originating from South India. This light, thin, and multi-layered flatbread is made from a mixture of flour, water, salt, and a small amount of sugar, often with the addition of coconut milk or butter to enhance the flavor and texture. Roti Canai is usually eaten as a breakfast or quick snack, either on its own or paired with various curries.

5-star recommendation; PJG and I got up early twice to eat at a street stall very close to our apartment. The price for a classic egg roti with curry sauce is 1.5 Ringgit, and a egg Tosai is 2.5 Ringgit.

左边的是经典的鸡蛋煎饼，右边的是鸡蛋薄煎饼 – On the left is the classic egg roti, and on the right is the egg tosai.

马来西亚著名小吃：云吞面；一道源自中国广东省的传统面食，广受华人社区的喜爱，特别是在香港、马来西亚、新加坡等地区。这种面食以其简单、清淡而鲜美的特点，成为早餐和午餐的常见选择。

4星推荐；价格8马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Wonton Mee; a traditional noodle dish originating from China’s Guangdong Province, widely loved by Chinese communities, especially in Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, and other regions. This noodle dish, with its simple, light, and delicious characteristics, has become a common choice for breakfast and lunch.

4-star recommendation; priced at 7 Ringgit.

马来西亚著名小吃：罗惹；是东南亚地区特别是马来西亚和新加坡广泛流行的一种沙拉。基本食材通常包括生青瓜、豆芽、菠菜、菠萝、芒果和刺梨等新鲜水果与蔬菜，当然，最为人称道的是其调味酱，这种酱料一般是由虾膏、糖、辣椒和柠檬汁混合而成。这种酱料味道复杂，甜、咸、鲜、辣味俱全，令罗惹的味道极为突出，既有亚洲特有的香辣味，又有清新的酸甜味。

3星推荐，价格5-10马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Rojak; a type of salad that is widely popular in Southeast Asia, especially in Malaysia and Singapore. The basic ingredients usually include fresh fruits and vegetables such as cucumbers, bean sprouts, spinach, pineapple, mango, and star fruit. Of course, the most acclaimed part is the dressing, which is generally made from a mixture of shrimp paste, sugar, chili, and lime juice. This dressing has a complex flavor that includes sweet, salty, umami, and spicy notes, making the taste of Rojak very distinctive. It has the unique spicy flavor of Asia, as well as a refreshing sweet and sour taste.

3-star recommendation; prices range from 5-10 Ringgit.

一道好吃的小菜：光锵；这是一道没那么有名的小吃，我俩在7 Villege吃晚饭尝试的，应该是一道潮州传统糕点，主要的馅料是白萝卜、沙葛、冬菇、花生、粘米粉和薯粉。

4星推荐，价格7马币

A tasty side dish: Guang Chang; this is a less famous dish that we tried when having dinner at 7 Village. It’s a traditional Teochew pastry, with the main filling ingredients being white radish, yam, shiitake mushrooms, peanuts, glutinous rice flour, and potato starch. Very tasty.

4-star recommendation, priced at 7 Ringgit.

印度尼西亚美食：在我们第二个公寓附近，PJG发现了一家印度尼西亚餐厅。我们在那里尝试了一次晚餐，也点了一道牛肉兰当菜。这里的兰当与娘惹风味的兰当还是有着明显的味道区别，整体味道非常不错，给予3.5星的推荐。我们点了两道菜和两个饮料，总共花费106马币。这次用餐体验让我们对印度尼西亚菜有了更深的了解。

Indonesian cuisine: Near our second apartment, PJG discovered an Indonesian restaurant. We tried dinner there once and also ordered a beef rendang dish. The rendang here had a distinctly different taste compared to the Nyonya-style rendang. Overall, the flavor was very good, and I give it a 3.5-star recommendation (the translator gives it a resounding 5 stars). We ordered two dishes and two non-alcoholic drinks, which cost a total of 106 Ringgit. This dining experience gave us a glimpse of Indonesian culture and cuisine.

马来西亚著名小吃：碌碌，也就是街头的涮的串串，在这里非常流行，我觉得很一般，2星推荐，价格1-3马币每串

A famous Malaysian dish: Lok-lok, which is skewered food that is cooked by dipping it in boiling water, is very popular here. I find it quite average, so I give it a 2-star recommendation. The price ranges from 1-3 Ringgit per skewer.

马来西亚著名小吃：叻沙；一道在东南亚极为受欢迎的面条汤菜，特别是在马来西亚、新加坡、印度尼西亚和泰国。这道菜的魅力在于它丰富的口味和多样化的地区版本，每个地方的叻沙都有其独特的风味和特色。基本上，Laksa 主要由两部分组成：面条和汤底。面条通常是米制或小麦面条，而汤底则根据不同类型的叻沙而变化。无论是哪种类型的叻沙，通常都会加入香菜、薄荷叶或其他香草来提味，而一勺辣椒酱或虾酱也是不可或缺的。

1星或是0星推荐，尝试过两种叻沙，有一种独特的味道我俩都不是很喜欢；价格5-15马币

A famous Malaysian dish: Laksa; an extremely popular noodle soup dish in Southeast Asia, especially in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and Thailand. The charm of this dish lies in its rich flavors and diverse regional versions, with each place having its unique taste and characteristics. Basically, Laksa consists of two main components: noodles and broth. The noodles are usually made from rice or wheat, while the broth varies according to the different types of Laksa. Regardless of the type of Laksa, it is usually seasoned with cilantro, mint leaves, or other herbs, and a spoonful of chili paste or shrimp paste is also essential. Many of the locals rave about Laksa, so we really tried to like it.

0-1 star recommendation; we tried two types of Laksa and found a unique taste that neither of us really liked. The price ranges from 5-15 Ringgit.

在马来西亚，几乎每个美食中心都有以上写到的小吃，所以通常没有必要特别挑选哪一个美食中心去品尝。这些小吃的味道在不同摊位间大体相似，你只需选择一个离自己近的美食中心便可享用美食。虽然价格略有差异，但差别通常只是几马币。

每个美食中心都设有饮料摊位，这些通常由美食中心的老板管理。如果顾客未点饮料，有时老板可能会显得有些不高兴。点餐时，你需要记住自己的桌号，直接在摊位点餐后，工作人员会把食物送到你的桌上，然后现场支付现金。在这里，小费通常不是必需的，工作人员在接收或找零时总会双手递交，并且常会礼貌地说声“谢谢”，表达对顾客的感激。

坐在美食中心，品尝各式美食，观察来自世界各地的人，这种体验独一无二，非常迷人。

总的来说，马来西亚的美食丰富多样，令人目不暇接，我只是点到为止，可是写到这里，我已感到有些精疲力尽。

In Malaysia, almost every Hawker center has the dishes mentioned above, so it’s usually not necessary to specifically choose which Hawker center to go to for tasting. The flavors of these dishes are generally similar across different stalls, so you can simply choose a Hawker center that is close to you to enjoy the food. Although prices may vary slightly, the difference is usually only a few Ringgit.

Each Hawker center has drink stalls, which are usually managed by the Hawker center’s owner. If customers don’t order drinks, the owner may sometimes appear slightly unhappy. When ordering, you need to remember your table number. After ordering directly at the stall, the staff will bring the food to your table, and you pay in cash on the spot. Here, tipping is usually not necessary. The staff will always hand over the money or change with both hands and often politely say “thank you” to express their gratitude to the customers.

Sitting in a Hawker center, tasting various delicacies, and observing people from all over the world has been a unique and fascinating experience.

Overall, Malaysian cuisine is rich and diverse, making it dazzling. I have only scratched the surface, but writing up to this point, I already feel a very exhausted.