2024年12月7日,星期六,利马之旅的最后一天
Saturday, December 7, 2024, the Last day, Day 9, of the Lima Trip
今天是我们这次旅行的最后一天,凌晨2点的飞机,因此在利马还有整整一天的时间。PJG 的腹泻情况好转了许多,看来抗生素起效很快。不过,为了恢复体力,他继续在民宿休息,我上午打 Uber 去了圣弗朗西斯科修道院博物馆。利马周六的交通依然拥堵,本来不到二十分钟的车程,我的Uber花了40 分钟才抵达目的地。博物馆的门票是 20 秘鲁新索尔,包括导游讲解,其实是游客不允许自行参观,必须跟随导游讲解完成游览。整个参观过程禁止拍照,所以没有留下任何照片。为了简单展示一下这个博物馆的氛围,我从网上下载了几张照片。
Today is the last day of our trip, with a flight at 2 a.m., so we still have a full day in Lima. PJG has improved significantly, and it seems the antibiotics are working quickly. However, to regain strength, he continues to rest at the Airbnb while I explore the city.
In the morning, I took an Uber to the Convent of San Francisco de Lima . Traffic in Lima on Saturdays is still congested, and what should have been less than a 20-minute drive took my Uber 40 minutes to reach the destination. The museum ticket costs 20 soles and includes a guided tour. In fact, visitors are not allowed to explore on their own and must follow the guided tour to complete the visit. Photography is prohibited throughout the tour, so I couldn’t take any pictures. To give a simple idea of the museum’s atmosphere, I downloaded a few photos from the internet.
还有另外一个大问题,我参加的这个英语团只有三个人,而导游的英语不仅带有浓重的西班牙口音,还有一点大舌头,很多时候我没完全听懂他在说什么,哈哈。不过,另外两个人似乎在点头或保持沉默。由于我在问了几个问题后发现导游似乎也听不太懂我的意思,我便不再提问了。也许我们三个人都有相同的感受,都选择了保持沉默。但是我还是或多或少地学了很多历史。
There was another big issue: the English tour group I joined had only three people, and the guide’s English not only had a strong Spanish accent but also a bit of a lisp, so I often couldn’t fully understand what he was saying, haha. However, the other two people either nodded or remained silent. After asking a few questions and realizing that the guide seemed to have difficulty understanding me, I stopped bothering to ask questions. Perhaps the three of us shared the same feeling and chose to remain silent. Still, I managed to learn quite a bit of history.
这座修道院建于17世纪,融合了西班牙巴洛克风格,内部装饰有精美的木雕、瓷砖和壁画,充分展现了殖民时期宗教艺术的辉煌成就。修道院最引人注目的部分是其地下墓穴(Catacombs),曾是殖民时期利马市民的公共墓地。据估计,这里安葬了多达7万具遗骸。导游提到,只有基督教徒才能被埋葬在此,因此许多人为了能安葬在墓穴里而选择皈依基督教。墓穴内能看到排列整齐的头骨和骨骼,而且好几个被展示的骨仓都有同样的骨头,我正在有这个疑问的时候,导游正好讲解说当时骨骼是按类存放的,比如头骨都在一个骨仓,股骨都在一个骨仓,等等。
The monastery was built in the 17th century, blending Spanish Baroque style, with its interior adorned with exquisite wood carvings, tiles, and murals, fully showcasing the splendor of colonial religious art. The most striking part of the monastery is its underground catacombs, which served as a public cemetery for Lima’s residents during the colonial period. It is estimated that up to 70,000 remains are buried here. The guide mentioned that only Christians could be buried in the catacombs, so many people converted to Christianity to secure a burial spot there. Inside the catacombs, you can see neatly arranged skulls and bones. While I was wondering why several bone pits displayed the same types of bones, the guide explained that bones were categorized and stored by type at the time—for example, skulls were kept in one pit, femurs in another, and so on.
此外,导游还介绍说,随着秘鲁在19世纪初独立,现代墓地的概念逐渐兴起,公共墓地开始在城市周边建立,修道院从此停止作为墓地使用,这一转变也标志着殖民时期传统丧葬文化的终结。
The guide also explained that with Peru’s independence in the early 19th century, the concept of modern cemeteries gradually emerged. Public cemeteries began to be established on the outskirts of cities, and the monastery ceased to be used as a burial site. This transition marked the end of traditional colonial burial practices.
以下照片是从google review下载
The photos below were downloaded from a Google review:
游览完修道院博物馆,我徒步去了圣马丁广场,是该市最著名的广场之一,也是联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产的一部分。建于1921年,为纪念秘鲁独立100周年而修建,广场以秘鲁独立英雄圣马丁将军命名,他在1821年宣布秘鲁独立。
After visiting the monastery museum, I walked to Plaza San Martín, one of the city’s most famous squares and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Peru’s independence, the square is named after General San Martín, the hero of Peru’s independence, who proclaimed the country’s independence in 1821.
坐 Uber 回到酒店附近的一家烤鸡店吃午饭,PJG 感觉好了很多,迫不及待地“逃离监狱”,与我在烤鸡店会合,还顺便蹭了我好几根薯条吃。下午,我们一起去了一个看起来很特别的餐厅,点了两杯咖啡,我还吃了一个冰淇淋。晚饭则是在民宿附近简单地解决了一顿。
Later, I took an Uber back to a rotisserie chicken restaurant near the hotel for lunch. PJG was feeling much better and couldn’t wait to “escape prison,” as he called it, meeting me at the restaurant and even sneaking a few of my fries. In the afternoon, we went together to a restaurant that looked quite unique, ordered two cups of coffee, and I also had an ice cream. For dinner, we kept it simple and ate at a place near the Airbnb.
这个饭店的内外都被黑白2D手绘漫画风格装饰,营造出仿佛置身漫画世界的感觉。- The restaurant’s interior and exterior were decorated in a black-and-white 2D hand-drawn comic style, creating the feeling of being immersed in a comic book world.
简单的晚饭,左边的是海鲜炒饭,右边的是意大利饺子 – For the simple dinner, the dish on the left was seafood fried rice, and on the right was Italian Ravioli.
回到民宿稍作休息,完成了最后的行李整理。夜色深沉,10点半,我们打了 Uber 前往机场。40多分钟的车程,夜晚的利马还是繁忙喧嚣。凌晨1点半开始登机时,疲惫和睡意慢慢交织,让我难以抗拒很快入睡了。经过7个小时的飞行,我们平安抵达了休斯顿机场。一个多小时的专机停留,4个小时的航班,终于回到了旧金山机场。最后一段是40多分钟的 Uber 车程,熟悉的街景慢慢映入眼帘。推开家门的一刻,疲惫中感受到一丝宁静,归属感悄然而至。
After returning to the Airbnb for a short rest, we finished packing the last of our luggage. As the night deepened, at 10:30 p.m., we called an Uber to the airport. The 40-minute ride revealed that Lima was still bustling and noisy at night. Boarding began at 1:30 a.m., and the mix of exhaustion and drowsiness quickly lulled me to sleep.
After our 7-hour flight, we safely arrived at Houston Airport. Following a layover of just over an hour, we boarded a 4-hour flight and finally returned to SFO. The last leg was a 40-minute Uber ride, as the familiar cityscapes slowly came into view.
The moment we opened the door to our home, a sense of calm emerged amidst the exhaustion, and a quiet feeling of belonging settled in.
利马之旅怎么样?我想我会再写一篇总结。
Well, how was the trip to Lima? We will write a summary to capture my thoughts!
I’m glad you made it safely home and that James feels better and you never caught it!
James and South American food don’t go together well!
I laughed at your experience with the guided tour, that it very often my experience.
Very interesting to hear that people converted to Christianity just so they could be buried in the catacombs.
很高兴男主好起来啦!
这么快就结束了利马之行。有点没看够,要是时间宽裕就能多走几处。
博物馆值得一看!要是喜欢旅游,多学几种语言吧,趁年轻!
我很喜欢这个饭店的风格呢!