沙漠绿洲 Huacachina Oasis

Wednesday, December 4, 2024, Day 6 of the Lima Trip

2024年12月4日，星期三，利马之旅第六天

早上7点多，我们乘坐Uber前往Atocongo汽车站，开始今天的注定独特的旅程。搭上Cruz del Sur的大巴，目标是距离利马四个多小时车程的沙漠绿洲——Huacachina Oasis。在车站时，幸运地遇到了一位会说英语的女士，巧合的是她与我们同车同行，省去了和车站工作人员语言沟通的困扰。大巴的舒适度令人满意，椅背可以放倒，座椅之间还配有可拉起的帘子，会为陌生人之间增添一份私密。窗外的风景多是大片的荒芜，感觉沙尘在空气中飘荡，有时会看到很多看似被遗弃的砖瓦房，有些实际上仍有人居住，或许是尚未完工的，偶尔会看到绿色的植物，或是葡萄园。时间在这漫无边际的死气沉沉景色中悄然流逝，四个多小时的旅程仿佛不过弹指一瞬，转眼我们已抵达伊卡市。

Around 7 a.m., we took an Uber to the Atocongo bus station to begin today’s unique journey. We boarded a Cruz del Sur bus bound for Huacachina Oasis, a desert oasis located more than four hours from Lima. At the station, we were fortunate to meet a Peruvian woman who spoke some english and coincidentally shared the same bus with us, sparing us the challenge of communicating with the station staff. The bus ride was quite comfortable, with reclining seats and curtains between them for added privacy between strangers.

The view outside was mostly vast expanses of desolation, with the sensation of dust floating in the air. Occasionally, we saw what appeared to be abandoned brick houses, some of which were still inhabited or perhaps unfinished. Here and there, green plants or vineyards broke the monotony. Time quietly slipped by in this lifeless scenery, and the four-hour journey felt like a fleeting moment. Before we knew it, we had arrived in the city of Ica.

我们的大巴 – Our bus

沿途的景色 – Scenery Along the Way

下午快2点，抵达伊卡市后，走出车站便被这里的热气惊到，竟然达到90度！在车站附近随便找到一家中餐馆，简单快速地解决了午饭。走出餐馆，眼前是一片灰尘飞扬的大街，满是穿梭不停的小三轮摩托，喧嚣中透着一种朴实的热闹。看着这熟悉的场景，仿佛回到了儿时的家乡，带着一丝怀旧的亲切感。我们拦下一辆，花了8秘鲁新索尔，十多分钟的颠簸后，便抵达了今天的目的地 Huacachina Oasis 沙漠绿洲。

By nearly 2 p.m., after arriving in the city of Ica, we stepped out of the station and were immediately struck by the heat—it reached a scorching 90 degrees! We quickly found a Chifa restaurant near the station for a simple and quick lunch. Stepping out of the restaurant, we were greeted by a dusty street bustling with the constant flow of small three-wheeled motorcycles, tuk-tuks. Amid the noise, there was an air of lively simplicity.

The familiar scene evoked a sense of nostalgia, as if I had returned to my childhood hometown, bringing a touch of warmth. We flagged down a ride, paid 8 Peruvian Soles, and after a bumpy ten-minute journey, holding on for our dear lives, we arrived at today’s destination: the Huacachina Oasis in the desert.

“The Bungalow”

在家里搜寻利马值得游览的地方时，Huacachina Oasis 的照片一下子就吸引了我的目光。你能想象吗？在一望无际的金色沙漠中，竟藏着这样一片生机盎然的绿洲！于是，我俩决定弥补没计划去马丘比丘的遗憾，踏上了通往这片沙漠绿洲的旅程。

While searching at home for places worth visiting in Lima, the photos of Huacachina Oasis immediately caught my eye. Can you imagine? Amid the endless golden desert, there lies such a vibrant and thriving oasis! So, the two of us decided to make up for not planning a trip to Machu Picchu and embarked on a journey to this desert oasis.

Huacachina 原本是由地下水流自然形成的绿洲，但随着周边地区农业的发展和地下水的过度开采，这片绿洲的天然水源逐渐枯竭，湖水水位也因此下降。为了保护这片沙漠奇观，当地政府采取了人工补水的措施。虽然如今的湖泊不再完全天然，但这些努力让 Huacachina 得以延续其独特的风采，继续吸引着无数游客，同时保留了它深厚的历史和文化价值。

Huacachina was originally a naturally formed oasis fed by underground water flow. However, with the development of agriculture in the surrounding areas and the over-extraction of groundwater, the oasis’s natural water source gradually dried up, causing the lake’s water level to drop. To preserve this desert marvel, the local government implemented artificial water replenishment measures. While the lake is no longer entirely natural, these efforts have allowed Huacachina to maintain its unique charm, continuing to attract countless visitors while preserving its rich historical and cultural significance.

这片绿洲还流传着一个凄美的传说：据说湖泊是由一位少女为悼念她战死的爱人——一位印加战士——所流下的眼泪化成的。某个傍晚，一名陌生的战士途经湖边，发现了这位悲伤的少女。为了躲避他的目光，她跳入湖中藏匿，却在不知不觉中化身为一条美人鱼。从此，每逢满月之夜，这位名叫 Huacachina 的少女都会浮出水面，继续为她失去的爱人哭泣。

There is a poignant legend associated with this oasis: it is said that the lake was formed from the tears of a young maiden mourning her fallen lover—an Inca warrior. One evening, a stranger passed by the lake and noticed the sorrowful maiden. To escape his gaze, she leapt into the lake to hide but unknowingly transformed into a mermaid. Since then, on every full moon night, the maiden, named Huacachina, is said to rise to the surface, weeping for her lost love.

我和 PJG 放下行李，简单收拾妥当，来到湖边点了两杯冰镇啤酒。在这静谧的绿洲旁，凉爽的酒液缓缓驱散了旅途的疲惫，让人身心得到片刻的放松。休息片刻后，我们开始了一场有些艰难的沙丘攀登之旅，目标是站在沙丘之巅，迎接那绚烂的日落。

PJG and I put down our luggage, quickly freshened up, and headed to the lakeside to order two chilled beers. By the tranquil oasis, the refreshing drink gradually washed away the fatigue of the journey, offering a moment of relaxation for both body and mind. After a brief rest, we embarked on a somewhat challenging sand dune climb, aiming to reach the summit and embrace the magnificent sunset.

这里的沙子细腻柔软，然而行走在这无尽的细沙中却并不轻松。每一步都深陷其中。耳边不时传来沙丘越野车的轰鸣声，虽然增添了几分热闹，却也稍稍破坏了这片宁静的氛围。我们沿着之字形的路线，走走停停，一步步向上攀登，用了一个多小时，终于抵达了沙丘的顶端，留下了一排深深的脚印。

The sand here is fine and soft, and walking through the endless dunes is no easy task. Each step sinks deeply into the sand. The occasional roar of dune buggies breaks the silence, adding some liveliness but also slightly disrupting the serene atmosphere. Following a zigzag route, we climbed step by step, stopping occasionally to rest. After over an hour, we finally reached the summit of the sand dune, leaving behind a trail of deep footprints.

当 Huacachina 绿洲尽收眼底的那一刻，一种强烈的满足感涌上心头。站在沙丘顶端的我们，仿佛置身于世外，眼前的景色如画般展开。沙丘的顶部如一柄锋利的刀刃，我们就坐在这刀刃的一侧，俯瞰着脚下渺小的人群和湖泊，耳畔是微风拂过的轻声，和落在脸上的细沙。抬眼望去，夕阳正在缓缓坠下，橙红的余晖洒满整个沙漠，距离似乎触手可及。

The moment Huacachina Oasis came fully into view, a profound sense of satisfaction surged through me. Standing atop the sand dune, we felt as though we were in another world, with a breathtaking, picture-perfect scene unfolding before our eyes. The ridge of the dune was as sharp as a blade, and we sat on one side of this “blade,” overlooking the tiny figures of people and the lake below. The gentle breeze whispered in our ears, carrying fine grains of sand onto our faces. Looking up, we saw the sun slowly descending, its orange-red glow spreading across the entire desert, seemingly within reach.

这一刻，天地间的喧嚣仿佛被彻底抹去，取而代之的是沙漠的无垠与落日的壮丽。广袤的大地与苍穹交相辉映，让人心旷神怡，仿佛灵魂也随风变得轻盈。这一刻的美，让整段旅程都显得无比值得，将成为我俩记忆中永恒的珍藏。

In this moment, all the clamor of the world seemed to vanish completely, replaced by the boundless expanse of the desert and the grandeur of the setting sun. The vast earth and sky reflected one another, filling us with a sense of serenity, as if our very souls were lifted and carried away by the breeze. The beauty of this moment made the entire journey feel undeniably worthwhile, destined to become an eternal treasure in our shared memories.

下沙丘比想象中容易得多，每一步都像是跳跃在失重的太空中，轻盈而畅快。几分钟后，我们便飘然抵达沙丘底部，不需要攀爬时那条曲折的之字形路线。然而，鞋子里、袜子里、甚至裤脚里全都塞满了细腻的沙子。回到旅店，冲了个澡，把脸上和身上的沙粒一一洗去，换上干爽的衣服后，我们来到湖边的一家餐厅，享用了一顿简单的晚餐，为今天的旅程画上句号。本想着能在这片沙漠中见到久违的繁星，享受与城市截然不同的夜空。然而，星星似乎躲藏起来了，夜幕中只留下一片遗憾。

Descending the sand dune was much easier than expected. Each step felt like leaping in a weightless space, light and exhilarating. Within minutes, we effortlessly reached the bottom, no longer needing the zigzag path we took on the way up. However, fine sand filled our shoes, socks, and the cuffs of our pants.

Back at the hotel, we took a refreshing shower, washing away the grains of sand from our faces and bodies. After changing into clean, dry clothes, we headed to a lakeside restaurant for a simple dinner, bringing today’s journey to a close. We had hoped to see a long-lost starry sky in this desert, far removed from the city’s glare. Yet, the stars seemed to hide, leaving behind only a hint of regret under the night’s veil.

One of the two dishes above is going to be remembered…. 上面的两道菜中的一道将会让我们铭记…