利马第四天 Day 4 in Lima

2024年12月3日，星期二，利马之旅第5天 Tuesday, December 3, 2024, Day 5 of the Lima Trip

上午，我们从民宿出发，沿着悬崖边的海景路徒步，找到了通往悬崖下方海滩的阶梯，海边是一个冲浪者们的聚集地。一路走着，步伐渐渐远离了回程的阶梯。查看谷歌地图，地图显示可以沿着另外一条公路走上悬崖，绕回去，我们便相信了导航，走上了过街天桥。

In the morning, we left the apartment and walked along the scenic coastal road by the cliff, finding stairs that led down to the beach below, a gathering spot for surfers. As we walked, we gradually moved away from the stairs for the return journey. Checking Google Maps, it showed that we could follow another road up the cliff and loop back, so we trusted the navigation and proceeded across the pedestrian overpass.

刚下天桥，就看见一块警示牌。用谷歌翻译一看，牌子提醒道路维修，不建议通行。但阳光正好，我们兴致正浓，便没有理会，继续前行。不久后，工地的景象映入眼帘，前方的道路被封锁。一位施工的交通指挥员朝我们挥手示意，似乎是在鼓励我们跨过栏杆继续前进。带着些许冒险精神，我们跟着他的指引继续向前。

As soon as we got off the overpass, we noticed a warning sign. Using Google Translate, we found it cautioned that the road was under repair and not recommended for passage. But the sun was shining, and we were in high spirits, so we ignored it and pressed on. Shortly after, we came across a construction site, with the road ahead blocked. A traffic controller at the site waved at us, encouraging us to climb over the barrier and continue. Fueled by a sense of adventure, we followed his guidance.

然而，走着走着，步行路彻底消失了，剩下的只有狭窄的机动车道，无奈之下，只好折返，换了一条似乎有步行通道的道路。然而，这条路走到一半，步行道也戛然而止。顺着台阶下去，眼前竟是一个堆满垃圾的角落，散发着不小的挑战意味。我们咬牙穿过垃圾堆，踩着松散的山坡小道，再次跨过机动车道，终于回到了起点。虽然有些狼狈，但也算是一段别样的经历吧。

However, as we walked further, the pedestrian path completely disappeared, leaving only a narrow road for vehicles. Left with no choice, we turned back and took another route that appeared to have a walking path. Yet halfway down this road, the walkway abruptly ended. Following a set of steps down, we found ourselves in a corner piled with trash, presenting a somewhat daunting challenge. Determined, we pushed through the garbage heap, navigated a loose dirt trail on the hillside, and crossed the vehicle road again, finally making it back to where we started. Though a bit messy, it turned out to be a unique experience in its own way.

回到原点后，我们打了Uber回到民宿附近，简单吃了午饭，我随即前往参加早已报名的烹饪课。这种课程主要为游客设计，虽然无法学习高超的厨艺，但可以体验秘鲁的特色食材和本地香料的魅力。今天的课程只有三位游客报名，内容包括两道经典秘鲁菜——柠汁腌生鱼（Ceviche）和鸡肉土豆沙拉（Causa），以及著名的皮斯科酸鸡尾酒（Pisco Sour）。课程整体体验不错，我可以自信地说已经掌握了这两道菜的基本做法，回家后一定会尝试。不过唯一的问题应该是秘鲁特有的两种辣椒在家里恐怕难以买到，这肯定会成为还原地道风味的一大挑战。

After returning to our starting point, we took an Uber back to the area near our apartment and had a simple lunch. I then headed off to the cooking class I had signed up for before we left. These classes are primarily designed for tourists, and while they don’t teach advanced culinary techniques, they offer a chance to learn about Peru’s unique ingredients and local spices.

Today’s class had only three participants and focused on two classic Peruvian dishes—Ceviche and Causa (a chicken potato salad like thing)—as well as the famous Pisco Sour cocktail. The overall experience was great, and I can confidently say I’ve grasped the basics of making these dishes. I’ll definitely try them at home. The only challenge will likely be finding the two Peruvian chili varieties, which might be difficult to find back home, posing a hurdle to recreating the authentic flavors.

第二个学的是皮斯科酸鸡尾酒 – Learned how to make the famous Pisco Sour

上完三个小时的烹饪课后，我打包了自己做的两道菜给PJG品尝，他觉得味道还不错。晚餐我们选择了一家秘鲁日本料理的餐厅，这类餐厅叫做Nikkei，与秘鲁中餐菜系（Chifa）相似，Nikkei料理是秘鲁与日本饮食文化融合的结晶。19世纪后期，大批日本移民来到秘鲁，将传统的日本烹饪技艺与秘鲁本地丰富的食材和风味相结合，创造出这一独特的菜系。Nikkei料理将秘鲁的辣椒、柠檬、藜麦和海鲜等食材，与日式的刺身、寿司等烹饪方式巧妙融合，形成了别具一格的风味。比如，用秘鲁黄辣椒制成的酱料搭配刺身，既保留了日本料理的清新，又赋予了秘鲁菜的浓郁层次感。

After the three-hour cooking class, I packed up the two dishes I made and had PJG try them—he thought they tasted pretty good. For dinner, we chose a Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant, a cuisine known as Nikkei. Similar to Chifa, the fusion of Peruvian and Chinese culinary traditions, Nikkei is the result of a blend between Peruvian and Japanese food cultures.

In the late 19th century, large numbers of Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru, bringing their traditional culinary techniques and combining them with Peru’s abundant local ingredients and flavors to create this unique cuisine. Nikkei dishes artfully merge Peruvian ingredients such as chili peppers, lemons, quinoa, and seafood with Japanese techniques like sashimi and sushi, resulting in a distinctive flavor profile. For example, sashimi paired with a sauce made from Peruvian yellow chili preserves the freshness of Japanese cuisine while adding the rich complexity of Peruvian flavors.