马萨特兰第二周 Week Two in Mazatlan

2025年3月24日到3月30日马萨特兰工作之旅的第二周

March 24–30, 2025 — Week 2 of the Mazatlán Work Trip

工作日的节奏已经步入正轨，没有特别的波澜。和同事开视频会议时，我分享了眼前的海景，大家纷纷好奇：在这样的环境下，我是怎么还能专心工作的？我笑着回答：“我是一个在中国出生长大、受过良好纪律训练的乖乖听话的中国人，哈哈！”

The work week has settled into a steady rhythm, with nothing particularly dramatic. During video meetings with colleagues, I shared the ocean view in front of me.

Everyone was curious: how could I stay focused on work in such an environment? I laughed and replied, “I’m a well-disciplined, obedient Chinese person — haha!”

周一和周二我们都在家做晚饭。周一是 PJG 拿手的意大利面，我则用有限的调料做了三道家乡菜——之所以是三道，是因为某人总爱说“菜多爱多”。在家吃饭的最大好处，是可以边用餐边欣赏每天都不同的落日，光影变幻，宁静而美好。

On Monday and Tuesday, we cooked dinner at home. Monday was PJG’s signature spaghetti, while I made three hometown dishes using the limited seasonings we had—three dishes, because someone always says, “more dishes, more love.”

The best part of eating at home is being able to enjoy a different sunset each evening while dining—shifting light and shadow, peaceful and beautiful.

Spaghetti and 3 favorite Chinese dishes

一个落日的进展 – A Sunset’s Progression

周五的下午三点多PJG突然被眩晕症攻击，我去旁边的药店买了一盒美克洛嗪，一共10片，价格27比索，非常便宜。周六眩晕依然持续，虽然他的症状是明显的良性阵发性位置性眩晕，我是有很多经验的，因为我从青少年的时候就有了眩晕症。我们跟着油管的视频，在家尝试做诊断，可惜他的某一侧的症状并不明显，就不可能做那个耳石复位术来帮助他快速恢复，所以他决定在家休息。我则独自一人出门，在老城区闲逛。对老城区的街道变得更熟悉了一些，也逛了好几家手工艺品和纪念品店，琳琅满目的商品大同小异。

After lunch on Friday, PJG was suddenly hit with a bout of vertigo. I went to the nearby pharmacy and bought a box of meclizine—10 tablets for just 27 pesos ($1.3 USD), incredibly cheap. The vertigo persisted into Saturday. Although his symptoms were clearly those of benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV), I have a lot of experience with this myself, having had vertigo since I was a teenager.

We followed a YouTube video to try and diagnose it at home, but unfortunately, his symptoms weren’t clearly tied to one side, which meant we couldn’t perform the Epley maneuver to help him recover quickly.

So, he decided to rest at home, while I went out alone to wander around the old town. (n.b. I’m pretty sure she is done traveling with me now.) I became more familiar with the streets there and browsed several handicraft and souvenir shops—lots of dazzling items, though most were variations on the same themes.

一个非常典型的马萨特兰的街道 – A very typical street in Mazatlán

*圣母无原罪大教堂*旁的一棵三角梅树 – A bougainvillea tree beside the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception

圣母无原罪大教堂里正举行着一场婚礼，陌生人也可以自由进入。教堂里还有一些虔诚的信徒在一旁默默祈祷，婚礼与祷告井然共存，互不干扰。我找了个位置坐下，安静地观礼了一会儿。牧师用西班牙语主持仪式，我一句也听不懂，只能静静感受那庄严气氛。- A wedding was taking place inside the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, and strangers were free to enter. A few devout worshippers were quietly praying on the side. The wedding and the prayers coexisted peacefully, without disturbing one another.
I found a seat and quietly observed the ceremony for a while. The priest conducted the service in Spanish—I couldn’t understand a word, but I could still feel the solemn atmosphere.

一座仿佛被遗弃的老建筑，如今成了售卖画作的场所。屋内有一架自动弹奏的钢琴，琴声在空旷的空间里回荡。虽然如今略显破败，但那斑驳的墙面与高挑的窗户，依然清晰地诉说着它在殖民时期曾有的辉煌与奢华。- An old building that seems almost abandoned has now become a place for selling paintings. Inside, there’s a self-playing piano, its music echoing through the empty space. Though the place is somewhat rundown now, the weathered walls and tall windows still vividly tell of the grandeur and luxury it once had during the colonial era.

周日，PJG 的眩晕虽未全然退去，却已明显缓解，他说身体感觉轻松许多，愿意一同出门走走。于是，这一天便成了提前庆祝我生日的日子——因明天又要回归工作。目的地是那座承载着百年历史的 1873 瞭望台。我们从民宿出发，沿着熟悉和陌生街道，四十多分钟的步行仿佛转瞬即至，当我们抵达那座小山脚下，瞭望台静静矗立于山顶，仿佛在等着我们的到来。

On Sunday, PJG’s vertigo hadn’t completely subsided but had noticeably improved. He said he felt much better and was up for going out. So the day became an early celebration of my birthday—since work resumes tomorrow.

Our destination was the 1873 Observatory, a site with over a century of history. We set off from our Airbnb, walking through a mix of familiar and unfamiliar streets. The 40-minute walk seemed to pass in an instant. When we reached the base of the small hill, the Observatory stood quietly at the top, as if it had been waiting for us.

1873 瞭望台的入口处 – The entrance to the 1873 Observatory

1873 瞭望台是马萨特兰一座建于1873年的历史建筑，最初作为军事瞭望台，用以监视海岸动向，后来曾一度作为气象站使用。如今，这座古老的建筑在修缮后重新对外开放，摇身一变为一处融合历史、人文与自然景观的文化地标。门票每人500比索，包含一段短暂的缆车登山旅程，价格略显昂贵，但既然来了，也就欣然接受了这份“入场仪式”。

The 1873 Observatory is a historic building in Mazatlán, constructed in 1873. It was originally a military watchtower used to monitor coastal activity and later served for a time as a weather station. Today, after restoration, this old structure has reopened to the public, transformed into a cultural landmark that blends history, culture, and natural scenery.

Admission is 500 pesos per person, which includes a short cable car ride up the hill. The price is a bit steep, but since we were already there, we gladly accepted it as part of the “entry ritual.”

这段缆车的速度堪比蜗牛，缓慢得几乎让人忘了自己在移动。想来这也是为了让乘客觉得这500比索的门票物有所值，好好“享受”这段登山旅程。- The cable car ride was snail-paced—so slow it almost made you forget you were moving. Perhaps that’s intentional, to make passengers feel like the 500-peso ticket is worth it and to really “savor” the uphill journey.

抵达山顶后，一位英文讲解员为我们简要介绍了园区的布局。出乎意料的是，这里可游览的地方远比想象中丰富。他建议我们先去看看小动物，再去观景台参观。我们沿着一条被树荫覆盖的人工栈道参观，途中看到许多色彩斑斓的鹦鹉被关在一个巨大的铁笼中，它们时而发出刺耳的鸣叫，仿佛在呐喊、在抗议，渴望冲破牢笼，飞向自由的天空。林间还偶遇了很多在争抢食物的孔雀。

Upon reaching the hilltop, an English-speaking guide gave us a brief overview of the park layout. To our surprise, there was much more to explore than we had expected. He suggested we visit the animals first, then head to the observation deck.

We followed a shaded boardwalk through the area, passing a massive iron cage filled with brightly colored parrots. They screeched sharply at times, as if crying out in protest, longing to break free and soar into the open sky. Along the way, we also came across several peacocks tussling over food in the woods.

我们又何尝不是生活在牢笼中 – Aren’t we, too, living in a cage?

圣母无原罪大教堂很醒目 – The Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception stands out prominently.

几只非常巨大的乌龟静静地在那里一动不动 – Several enormous turtles sat there quietly, completely still.

一只孔雀在发情 – A peacock was showing off for its mate.

走着走着就看到了一座非常独特的建筑，走近了才知道这是一座鲸鱼博物馆，是一个小型但颇具教育意义的展馆，专注于介绍鲸鱼生态与保护。虽然面积不大，但配合观景台的自然环境，让人在欣赏太平洋壮丽海景的同时，也能更深入地理解这片海域中庞大而神秘的生灵。

As we walked, we came across a very unique building. Upon approaching, we realized it was a whale museum—a small but educational exhibit focused on whale ecology and conservation. Though modest in size, it complemented the natural setting of the Observatory, allowing visitors to appreciate the stunning Pacific Ocean views while gaining a deeper understanding of the massive and mysterious creatures that inhabit its waters.

这个建筑是由墨西哥著名建筑师 **Alejandro D’Acosta** 参与完成，MUNBA 建筑设计团队常常采用回收材料进行建筑创作，这个博物馆是有运输集装箱镶嵌在建筑里，创造出一种奇幻的空间感。- This building was designed with the involvement of renowned Mexican architect Alejandro D’Acosta. The MUNBA architectural team often uses recycled materials in their creations, and this museum incorporates shipping containers into the structure, creating a surreal sense of space.

马萨特兰所在的加利福尼亚湾是世界上鲸类活动最频繁的区域之一，每年冬季都会有灰鲸、座头鲸等洄游至此繁殖，鲸鱼博物馆正是希望借此提高公众对这些海洋巨兽及其生态系统的关注与尊重。展馆里展示了鲸鱼骨骼模型、海洋知识图文介绍，还有有关鲸类迁徙、声纳系统与海洋生态的互动展项。

The Gulf of California, where Mazatlán is located, is one of the world’s most active regions for whales. Every winter, gray whales, humpbacks, and others migrate here to breed. The Whale Museum aims to raise public awareness and respect for these ocean giants and their ecosystems.

Inside the museum, there are whale skeleton models, informational displays about marine life, and interactive exhibits on whale migration, sonar systems, and ocean ecology.

这个是科学家们在海里装置的人工礁石的模型 – This is a model of an artificial reef installed by scientists in the ocean.

这个虚拟的眼镜展示了人工礁石安装的全过程，仿佛带人潜入深海之中，让人有种置身海底的沉浸感。- This virtual headset showcased the entire process of installing the artificial reefs, making you feel as if you were diving deep into the ocean—immersed in an underwater world.

下午将近一点，我们还沉浸在鲸鱼博物馆的展览中，却被突如其来的饥饿感打断了节奏。匆匆离开展馆，赶往观景台上的餐厅，结果却被告知餐食已停售，餐厅两点便关门，因为他们要为一场婚礼做准备。我们只得又匆忙赶回鲸鱼博物馆内的那家小咖啡馆，心中暗自期待还能找到点吃的，不料那里也已售罄。正当我们沮丧地坐下，犹豫是饿着肚子离开，还是忍耐着撑到观景台关闭（还有一个多小时）时，咖啡馆的服务员忽然走来，告诉我们他们刚补充了一些三明治。就这样，午餐得以解决，真是意外的幸运。

Just before 1 p.m., we were still absorbed in the exhibits at the Whale Museum when a sudden wave of hunger disrupted our rhythm. We rushed out and headed to the restaurant at the lookout, only to be told that food service had ended and the restaurant would close at 2 p.m. to prepare for a wedding. So we hurried back to the small café inside the museum, quietly hoping there might still be something to eat—but it, too, had sold out.

As we sat down, disappointed and unsure whether to leave due to hunger or hold out until the Observatory closed (still over an hour away), the café staff suddenly approached and told us they had just restocked some sandwiches. And just like that, lunch was saved—an unexpected bit of luck.

这个历史展区里展示了一些守望台原貌的老照片、航海工具、古地图等 – This historical exhibit area displays old photos of the original Observatory, nautical instruments, antique maps, and more.

观望台的顶层是一个酒吧，景色宜人 – The top level of the Observatory is a bar with beautiful, scenic views.

在前往观景台的小路上，我们路过一个园区，远远看到里面有几只火烈鸟。参观完历史展区后，我们迫不及待地想去看看，没想到那片区域已经关闭。PJG 向那位管理员请求让我们进去看看火烈鸟，只待五分钟，没想到他竟然爽快答应了。刚进去，我正专注地拍摄火烈鸟时，一只色彩斑斓的鹦鹉突然飞落在 PJG 的头上。工作人员递给它一些食物后，它竟然又飞到了我的头上。隔着帽子，我能清楚地感觉到它细小但锐利的爪子。接着，又有几只鹦鹉在我们头顶上飞来飞去，停留片刻又飞起，来回嬉戏。这一幕实在太有趣了，成了我生日当天最特别、最难忘的惊喜。

On the path to the Observatory house, we passed a park and spotted a few flamingos from a distance. After touring the historical exhibit, we were eager to check them out—only to find that the area had already closed. PJG asked the staff if we could go in just for five minutes to see the flamingos, and to our surprise, the man reluctantly agreed.

As I focused on photographing the flamingos, a brightly colored parrot suddenly landed on PJG’s head!! After a staff member handed it some food, it flew over and landed on my head too!! Even through my hat, I could clearly feel its small but sharp claws. A few more parrots then swooped around us, landing and taking off again, playfully circling above.

It was such a fun and unexpected moment—it became the most special and unforgettable surprise of my birthday.

下山我们选择了徒步，看到那个蜗牛缆车在我们的头顶慢慢划过 – We chose to walk down the hill and watched the snail-paced cable car slowly glide above our heads.

晚餐我们选了一家墨西哥餐厅，就坐落在古城中心，名为 El Presidio，设于一座建于1876年的法国殖民风格老宅中。这栋历史建筑最初由一位瑞士银行家兴建，后来成为 García 家族的宅邸，见证了百余年的岁月流转。餐厅的露天庭院宽敞开阔，被郁郁葱葱的植物环绕，几棵高大而苍老的参天古树依附着建筑而生，为整个空间增添了厚重而静谧的氛围，是一个很有情调的用餐之地，可惜的是我想看到的萨克斯风的演奏者今晚没有出现，略显遗憾。食物还算可口，虽谈不上惊艳，但比起其他墨西哥餐厅，确实略胜一筹。

For dinner, we chose a Mexican restaurant called El Presidio, located in the heart of the old town. It’s set in a French colonial-style mansion built in 1876. The historic building was originally constructed by a Swiss banker and later became the García family residence, bearing witness to over a century of change.

The restaurant’s open-air courtyard is spacious and surrounded by lush greenery. Several towering, ancient trees grow right alongside the structure, adding a sense of depth and tranquility to the atmosphere. It’s a very charming place to dine—though I was a bit disappointed that the saxophone player I’d been hoping to see didn’t perform that night.

The food was decent—not extraordinary, but definitely a notch above most other Mexican restaurants we’ve tried.