圣托里尼岛 Santorini


伊亚 Oia

昨天早上坐海上快艇从米科诺斯岛来到了圣托里尼岛,昨天的风也比较大,我担心自己晕船,没敢吃早饭,没想到乘船的经历也没那么糟糕,因为是一个快艇,大概2个小时就到了圣托里尼岛。我们的小旅店帮我们叫了一个车,举着PJG的名字的牌子在港口接我们,费用是45欧元。这个司机真是一个老手,蜿蜒的盘山路,即使是超车都开的很稳当。

Yesterday morning, we took a high-speed ferry from Mykonos to Santorini. The wind was relatively strong yesterday and I worried I would be seasick so I didn’t dare eat breakfast. Well, surprisingly the experience of taking a ferry was not that bad and because it was a fast ferry, we arrived in Santorini in about 2 hours.

Our little hotel had a car waiting for us and picked us up at the port holding a sign with PJGs name. This driver was a real veteran deftly handling the winding mountain roads and overtaking cars on curves. Alas, we arrived safely.

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我俩坐的海上快艇 The Seajet Ferry we took to Santorini

我们俩住的地方是圣托里尼岛的伊亚小镇,也应该是来这个岛上游客最多的地方。刚下了汽车,就看到蜿蜒一片在悬崖峭壁上的白色建筑,被蓝色的天和蓝色的大海衬托着。我本以为圣托里尼岛会和米科诺斯岛很接近,但是这里竟然出乎意料的不同。这里没有米科诺斯岛的迷宫般的小巷,没有装点了白色圆圈的大理石小径,似乎少了很多希腊当地人的气息。但是这里有同样美丽的白色建筑,有同样迷人的清澈的爱琴海,有着上千年历史的火山爆发形成的独特的地理特征,这里也真的是一个梦幻迷人的地方。

The place where we are staying is in an area called Oia on Santorini and it is likely the most popular place on the island. As soon as we got out of the car, I saw a patch of white buildings winding on the cliff, set off by the blue sky and the blue sea. I thought that Santorini would be very similar to Mykonos, but it was unexpectedly and pleasantly different. There is no labyrinth of alleys as in Mykonos; no marble paths decorated with white circles, and it seems that there is a lot less of the local greek atmosphere here. But like Mykonos, there are the same beautiful white buildings, the same fascinating clear Aegean Sea, and the unique geographical features formed by the volcanic eruption with a history of over a thousand years. It is really a dreamy and charming place.

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我俩的小旅馆的入口 The entrance to our hotel
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刚入住小旅馆,在我俩房间门前看到的景色 The view of our hot tub and Oia in the background
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在旅馆的平台看日落 The Sunset view from our hotel
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落日余晖映射在白色的建筑上 The sunset is painted on the white buildings
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旅馆看到的夜景 The night view from our hotel

在这里不赘述该岛的历史了,从SantoriniView网站上拷贝了一个简短的总结: “圣托里尼岛几个世纪以来的形成和发展是其强烈火山活动的结果,特别是史前大规模喷发使该岛荒废了几个世纪。根据希腊历史学家希罗多德的说法,第一批再次到达该岛的人是公元前 13 世纪的腓尼基人,他们给它取名为 Kallisti(=最美丽的),因为他们被它非凡的美丽所吸引。”

I won’t repeat the history of the island here. I copied a brief summary from the Santorini View website:

The history of Santorini is closely linked to the geophysical characteristics of the island. The form and progress of the island throughout the centuries is the outcome of its intense volcanic activity, especially of the massive prehistoric eruption that left the island deserted for some centuries. According to the Greek historian Herodotus, the first people to reach the island again were the Phoenicians in the 13th century BC, who gave it the name Kallisti (=the most beautiful) as they were mesmerized by its extraordinary beauty.

https://www.santorini-view.com/history-of-santorini/

今天早上我俩在伊亚小镇域逛了一圈,感觉这个区域的每个建筑应该都是一个酒店/民宿,这里真是一个度假的天堂,几乎每个酒店都会有一个游泳池,私人用热水浴缸。

We took a stroll through the Oia area this morning and it seemed that every building in Oia was either a hotel or a homestay. This really is a paradise for vacationers. Many of the hotels have swimming pools and/or private hot tubs.

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在探索伊亚的过程当中,我们发现了悬崖下方的一个渔港。下到渔港那里一共大约有250个阶梯,虽然我们没有计划今天要去那里,但是下面的景色似乎在招手让我们走下去。走下去不难,想想再爬回去? 我俩还是下去了,走过了到处都是驴粪的阶梯,迎接我们的是一个美丽安静的小渔港。 渔港就依偎在火山岩石的悬崖峭壁山脚,看起来很有意思。里边有四家看起来很特别的鱼餐厅。我们选择了“Dimitris”,找到了一个阴凉的位子,桌子就在海边,非常特别的一个午餐,让我想起了我俩在意大利阿马尔菲海岸旅游时的一顿午餐。吃完午饭,再爬回250个充满了驴粪的阶梯,事实上回去并没有想象中的难,因为某人并没有像在阿马尔菲海岸时我俩爬山回去时一样,汗流浃背,哈哈。

Although it wasn’t in our original plan for the day, we spotted a fishing port way below us down the cliff. The were steps there and they beckoned for us to walk down. The climb down was not difficult, only was the thought of climbing back up. After navigating the steps covered with donkey droppings we were greeted by a gorgeous tiny fishing port adorned with four special looking fish restaurants. We settled on “Dimitris” and found a shady table by the sea and had a very special lunch, which was reminiscent of our lunch we had when traveling on the Amalfi Coast. After lunch, we climbed back up the 250 stairs full of donkey dung. In fact it was not as difficult as we had imagined because someone was not sweating profusely as he was when we climbed back up in the Amalfi Coast, haha.

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下山 walking down the stairs (Note the Donkey Dung)
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独特的小渔港 The unique fishing port
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我亲爱的鱿鱼老师变成了人们的展示品 Clearly, they haven’t watched “My Octopus Teacher”
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我俩的午餐饭馆 Our lunch spot
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爬山回去遇到的驴队 The Donkey team we encountered on the way back
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又一个驴队 Another donkey team
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和驴队近距离接触 The close encounter with the donkey

坐在酒店露台的躺椅上,沐浴着阳光,吹着海风,看着一望无垠的,点缀着火山爆发形成的岛屿的爱琴海,自己也是这幅迷人的美景的一部分,不仅会感叹生活竟然会如此美好。 此时同样地感受到了自己语言的贫乏,看照片吧。

Sitting in our chairs, lounging around on the hotel terrace, bathing in the sun, the blowing sea breeze, watching the endless Aegean Sea dotted with islands formed by volcanic eruptions; we are also part of this fascinating scenery and we realize how beautiful life can be. Once again I feel the poverty of my native language to describe things – just look at the photos.

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著名的三个蓝顶教堂 The famous Three Blue Domes
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另一个角度看三个蓝顶教堂 Another view of the Three Blue Domes
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有很多人来这里拍婚纱照或者写真照,今天就看到了好几个 Many people come here for wedding photos, we’ve seen many just today
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网红来打卡的 Kastro Oia House
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游逛了大半天,某人在享受他的私人浴缸 (After wandering for most of the day, someone is enjoying his private hot tub

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