利马第七天 Day 7 in Lima

2024年12月6日，星期五，利马之旅第八天

Friday, December 6, 2024, Day 8 of the Lima Trip

是的，某人的“旅行者腹泻”今天更加严重了，加上昨晚还有些低烧，只能遗憾地留在床上休息。我去了超市，买了一些香蕉、电解质水和卫生纸，然后独自打了辆 Uber 前往华卡普克拉纳遗址。这是一座位于城市中心的古老金字塔，由古代原住民文明建造而成，距离民宿车程不到 10 分钟。遗址的门票价格为 15 秘鲁新索尔，包括一个小时的导游讲解。尽管游览时间短暂，但站在这座拥有千年历史的金字塔前，聆听导游的讲解，我还是学到了不少关于利马历史的知识。

Yes, the Peruvian two-step worsened today, coupled with a slight fever last night, so he had to stay in bed to rest. I went to the supermarket and bought some bananas, electrolyte water, and loads of toilet paper, then took an Uber alone to the Huaca Pucllana site. This ancient pyramid, built by indigenous civilizations, is located in the heart of the city and about a 10-minute Uber from our apartment.

The entrance fee was 15 Soles and included a one-hour guided tour. Though the visit was brief, standing before this millennia-old pyramid and listening to the guide’s explanations, I learned quite a bit about Lima’s history.

华卡普克拉纳遗址（Huaca Pucllana）是一座建于公元 200 至 700 年间的古老金字塔，由前印加时期的利马文化历经 300 多年，代代相传手工建造完成。这座遗址的核心是一座高约 25 米的七层金字塔，其独特之处在于采用了垂直排列的泥砖结构，并在每块泥砖之间留有缝隙。据导游讲解，这种设计不仅体现了古代建筑工艺的智慧，还显著增强了金字塔的抗震能力，使其在地震频发的安第斯地区屹立至今。

The Huaca Pucllana site is an ancient pyramid built between 200 and 700 AD by the Lima culture of the pre-Inca period, completed over 300 years through generations of manual construction. At its core stands a seven-level pyramid approximately 25 meters high. Its uniqueness lies in its vertically arranged adobe brick structure, with gaps intentionally left between each brick. According to the guide, this design not only demonstrates the ingenuity of ancient construction techniques but also significantly enhances the pyramid’s earthquake resistance, allowing it to withstand the frequent seismic activity of the Andes region to this day.

左边是建于千年前的泥砖墙，右边是20多年前建的修葺的泥砖墙，看得出很明显的区别吧？

On the left is the millennia-old adobe wall, and on the right is the reconstructed adobe wall built just 20 years ago. You can clearly see the difference, can’t you?

整座金字塔完全由泥砖建造，这不禁让人好奇：那下雨怎么办？导游的回答令人惊讶——利马几乎从不下雨，全年的降雨量大概是20毫米左右。他还补充说，如果你仔细观察，会发现利马的街道上没有排水的下水道，房屋的屋顶大多是平的，因为雨水对这里的人来说根本不是问题。利马人从不使用雨伞，或者说，雨伞在这里的用途是遮阳，而不是防雨。他笑着提到，上一次真正的降雨是在 1970 年，那还是他的父母告诉他的事，因为当时他还没有出生。我们带的两把伞完全没有用武之地。

The entire pyramid is made of adobe bricks, which naturally raises the question: what happens when it rains? The guide’s answer was surprising – Lima almost never gets rain, with an annual rainfall of only about 20 millimeters. He added that if you look closely, you’ll notice that Lima’s streets lack drainage systems, and most rooftops are flat because rain is simply not an issue here.

Lima people don’t use umbrellas – or rather, umbrellas here are used for shade, not for rain. With a smile, he mentioned that the last significant rainfall occurred in 1970, a story his parents told him because he wasn’t even born at the time. Those two umbrellas in our suitcases seem pretty silly don’t they?

华卡普克拉纳遗址的金字塔历经多个时期，其用途随着文明的演变而发生变化。在利马文化时期（公元200-700年），金字塔是宗教中心，顶部用于举行祭祀神灵仪式。进入瓦里文化时期（公元700-1000年），金字塔被用作防御工事，同时延续了部分宗教仪式。到了印加时期（15世纪），遗址的功能逐渐地方化，主要用于地方性的宗教仪式和社区聚会。殖民时期后，遗址一度被废弃，甚至被用作取土场，金字塔的重要性被遗忘，直到20世纪考古发掘的开展，金字塔重新成为研究秘鲁古代文明的重要遗址，并向公众展示其千年的历史与文化价值。导游说就在被发现之前，一些孩子在被土堆掩盖的金子塔上玩耍，后来被考古学家发现。

The Huaca Pucllana pyramid underwent multiple periods of use, with its purpose evolving alongside the civilizations that inhabited the area. During the Lima culture period (200–700 AD), the pyramid served as a religious center, with its summit used for rituals to honor the gods. In the Wari culture period (700–1000 AD), the pyramid was repurposed as a defensive structure while retaining some religious functions. By the Inca period (15th century), its role became localized, primarily hosting community gatherings and regional religious ceremonies.

After the colonial era, the site was abandoned and even used as a source of soil, with its historical importance forgotten until archaeological excavations in the 20th century brought it back to light. The pyramid has since become a significant site for studying Peru’s ancient civilizations and is open to the public to showcase its millennia-old history and cultural value. The guide mentioned that before its rediscovery, children used to play on what appeared to be mere mounds of earth covering the pyramid, which was later identified by archaeologists.

在遗址竟然看到了两个南美洲独特的动物，导游说当时正好是它们的午饭时间，所以它们没有理睬我们。左边那个两个浅色的回头的是美洲驼，右边这个是羊驼。羊驼的体型会比美洲驼小一些，脸会短一些。

At the site, we saw two unique South American animals. The guide mentioned it happened to be their lunchtime, so they paid no attention to us. The two light-colored ones turning their heads on the left are llamas, while the one on the right is an alpaca. Alpacas are smaller in size compared to llamas, with shorter faces. He seemingly says, “what are you looking at?”

参观完华卡普克拉纳遗址后，我步行前往附近的一个市场，挑选了一些南美洲的特色水果。一位摊位上的姑娘会说一点儿英文，非常热情地帮我挑选了几种。回到民宿附近，我在一家泰国餐厅简单地吃了个很晚的午餐。回到民宿后，发现 PJG 的腹泻情况既没有恶化，也没有明显好转，他吃了好几根香蕉以解决饥饿的问题。

After visiting the Huaca Pucllana site, I walked to a nearby market to pick out some South American specialty fruits. A young woman at one of the stalls, who spoke a little English, enthusiastically helped me select a variety. Near the apartment, I had a simple late lunch at a Thai restaurant. When I returned home, Inca’s revenge had neither worsened nor significantly improved, although he had eaten several bananas to curb his hunger.

我的简单的午饭，鸡肉芒果卷和大虾咖喱饺 – My simple lunch of chicken mango rolls and shrimp curry dumplings (it’s not a pancake).

左边的是人参果，第一次见到和尝试这个水果，非常甜，水分非常多，有一种哈密瓜的味道；右边的是黄百香果，和其他吃过的百香果类似，但是比普通百香果更甜。 The one on the left is pepino dulce, a fruit I tried for the first time. It’s very sweet, incredibly juicy, and has a flavor reminiscent of cantaloupe. The one on the right is yellow passion fruit, similar to other passion fruits I’ve had, but noticeably sweeter than the regular variety.

我在民宿附近发现了一家经营亚马逊雨林菜的餐厅，便独自前往享用了晚餐。出门前，我在楼下的超市给 PJG 买了一份鸡肉面条汤。今天属于我的独自探索也算结束了。

I found a restaurant near the apartment that serves Amazon Jungle cuisine, so I went there alone for dinner. Before heading out, I prepared PJG some chicken noodle soup from the supermarket downstairs. And with that, my solo exploration for the day came to an end.

我的晚餐：皮斯可沙瓦鸡尾酒，香蕉片，香肠tacos，和一种烤鱼, 没吃出来有什么热带雨林的味道. – My dinner: the daily pisco sour, banana and taro chips, sausage tacos, and a piece of grilled fish，I didn’t taste any special “jungle” flavor.

收到账单时还有一个小惊喜 – The surprise came with the bill! The waiters looked on as I repeatably opened the bill container.

PJG 的情况似乎在好转, 我独自度过了愉快的一天。

A pleasant day for me, although alone, but PJG seems to be improving.